A Snapshot and The Scoop: Organ Pipe Cactus

The Sonoran Desert might just be one of the most biologically rich deserts in the world. I mean, where else can you find both Saguaro cacti and Organ Pipe Cacti in the same place, not to mention the innumerable other cacti, shrub, and grass species that thrive in this green desert. While yes, technically the Sonoran is a desert, the cacti here get absolutely huge - take the Organ Pipe cactus in the picture above as an example. While not quite as tall as a saguaro, the organ pipe cacti certainly earns its cred as a huge cactus strictly from how wide it gets. Its many arms sprout from one base, focus more on taking up space than growing up high. It's still the second tallest plant for miles, and I was giddy every time I saw a new fantastically-shaped cactus. If I could grow them where I live you bet your bottom dollar I'd have a yard full of these babies!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Wrong Side of the Barrier

You know that sinking feeling in your stomach when you realize things are just not going your way? Yeah, that's how I felt when I realized I was on the wrong side of this road block when trying to leave Chiricahua National Monument as I fled a brewing blizzard in the higher elevations of the park. Fleeing snow storms seemed to be the theme of this year's winter trip, despite the fact that I was in the desert for crying out loud, and aren't deserts supposed to get little to no precipitation??? I had been exploring the scenic monument road which took me to elevations above 9000 feet within the park, but I didn't even get out of my car at the top - I took one look at the inches of snow already on the ground and one glance up to the tops of the towering pine trees that I couldn't even see, and hightailed it (safely) back down. I passed a ranger going up while I was all but crawling down the slick mountain roads, and although I didn't know it at the time they were checking for guests and presumably kicking us out due to the storm. I was the only one stupid enough to be up there in the snow, though I was on my way down, so they followed some ways behind me. I thought for sure they'd locked this gate and I would have to wait for them before I could leave, but closer inspection showed me it wasn't chained and I could push it open to get through. I closed it behind me, of course, though I doubt anyone else would try to go up the mountain in a blizzard. Ah well, you live and you learn.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: The Three Corners

Reachable only via (really awesome) four-wheel drive roads, the corners of Arizona, Nevada, and Utah converge out in the middle of the Mojave Desert, not far from the tiny town of Littlefield, Arizona. While not as famous as it's Four Corners counterpart (Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah), the three corners is still a bustling place during good-weather days. It was also the most remote aid station at this year's Grandmasters Ultra race, and I spent a day here with Torrey, Tyler, and Chris while we served runners completing their race. I would probably never have visited this little concrete and metal monument if not for the race, so props to the race directors for giving me a chance to see something new!

Chiricahua

Curiosity and ambition are the two main motivating factors that drive my travels. I have a huge goal to visit every unit of the national park system, and that combined with a general lack of tight schedules while traveling leave me with ample opportunity to stop at roadside attractions on a whim. These same factors compel me to drive every scenic byway marked on a map (because I still use paper maps, especially due to my tendency to visit places with little to no cell service), which is why I found myself heading to Chiricahua National Monument in southeastern Arizona on my way home from a week in the desert.

I hadn't been quite ready to return home, though I wasn't actively looking for ways to stall, and once the little green square on the map caught my attention I knew I'd be checking it out. I'd never heard of Chiricauhua, though I suppose that's not too difficult to believe considering it's a ways away from basically every major transportation corridor in the area. I didn't mind the distraction, and turned off at the appropriate exit to make my way across rolling plains deep in a valley between rugged desert mountain ranges. This little national monument lies nestled at the foot of one of these mountain ranges, and my approach was overshadowed by a looming storm. At lower elevations the precipitation was rain, though as I climbed up into the mountains by way of the two-lane monument drive the rain turned to sleet. It was a mixture of sleet and snow by the time I reached the visitors center, and full on snowing when I left the building a few minutes later.

Chiricahua is a place where five of the seven "life zones" in the northern hemisphere are stacked on top of each other in the space of a few miles, defined by differences in elevation, moisture, soil, and sun exposure. Starting at the lowest elevations we see the Lower Sonoran Zone characterized by bare patches of earth sprinkled with thorny desert plants, followed by the Upper Sonoran, Transition, Canadian, and finally the Hudsonian Zone above 9000 feet, where spruce, fir, and aspens thrive. Microhabitats are everywhere, catering to a multitude of species that otherwise would never converge here. Mountain-dwelling bears share the area with desert tortoises, deer are everywhere, and there are more birds in this location than nearly anywhere else in the Sonoran Desert.

One species I didn't see as I made my way up the scenic drive was humans. I didn't see a single other person as I drove, winding through canyons and along mountainside cliffs to the road's end at the summit, though hindsight shows that was probably due to the storm that was intensifying in the higher elevations of the park. The snow was heavier at the top, several inches already laying in dripping sheets over the parking lot and picnic tables that supposedly showcased unrivaled views of the valley below. During my visit I could barely see the tops of the ponderosas next to me, let alone the valley bottom, and I didn't linger at the top for long. I had no desire to take a tumble down the mountainside on my way back down along the increasingly slick road, and threw my car into the lowest gear possible in order to keep it under control. I left none too soon - they closed the park road just after I left.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Nature-Made Pincushions

Yet another desert plant I seriously want to add to my collection, the Pin Cushion Cactus just looks so cute! Sure, I wouldn't particularly want to snuggle up to its prickly-spun stem, but I can once again see myself having one or two in my home. And honestly, as far as cacti go, this little guy is hardly one that will hurt too bad if you accidentally get poked. Am I a crazy cactus lady? Probably. Do I care? Nope!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: The Ocotillo

Introducing one of my all-time favorite desert plants, the Ocotillo. This plant (oh-ko-TEE-oh) looks exactly like straight, barbed sticks poking up from the ground. At least, it does until it rains. Then leaves burst from the woody stems, only to quickly wither and drop once drought returns. The tops of the stems support brilliant red flowers in February and March, but return to dried-out, pokey looking upside-down octopuses for most of the year. People in the region still use cut ocotillo stems planted in a line as a living fence, and something about a towering fence that hurts would definitely dissuade me from coming onto somebody's property! At times like these I seriously wish I lived somewhere a little more arid than the forests of East Texas - I want so many desert plants in my life!!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Jojoba

Did you know that jojoba oil, commonly used in cosmetics and sometimes as a machine lubricant, is sourced from a desert plant that grows right here in the United States? While I'm not saying all jojoba wax/oil comes from the desert southwest, the fact that the plant grows here is pretty awesome. The wax is produced from the jojoba nut, and then further refined into oils for lotions, hair care products, and whatever else might be on your cosmetic shelf. While I knew jojoba was a plant, and I have used products with jojoba oil in them, seeing the plant right in front of me while exploring Saguaro National Park somehow drove home the point that we get a lot of what we used daily from the plants around us. Talk about an eye-opener!

National Trails Day 2019

Beneficial. It's no secret that being outside makes you feel better; there's been research supporting this for years. We've even seen a trend toward "green" prescriptions: where doctors recommend spending time in nature to lessen anxiety, improve mood, and even promote healing. No wonder, then, that people like me have made a holiday celebrating the trails that take us into nature, where we can forget our troubles and find happiness. To celebrate National Trails Day this year, I've compiled a list of my favorite hiking trails over the last five years or so. Some of these trails are short day hikes, some are long multi-day backpacking trips, but each of them hold wonderful memories and make me wish I was back on them as I look at each picture. In no particular order, here they are:

Andrew's Glacier, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO

If you're looking for a small challenge with a big reward, hiking to one of Rocky Mountain's few glaciers is definitely worth it! A beautiful walk through a mountain forest spits you out on the shoulder of a mountain, and up you go! You can't see the glacier or the tarn until you're standing on the edge of the world... And what a feeling it is!

Chesler Park, Needles District, Canyonlands National Park, UT

A long day hike, and not one to do in the heat of the day, this desert park is a place that I keep meaning to revisit! Surrounded by red and white striped hoodoos on all sides, this grassland looks like a meeting place for desert fair folk.

Rainbow Falls to Mt. Le Conte, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN

While I really wouldn't recommend this hike alone in the rain, the foggy landscape sure set the mood for a quite hike to a remote mountain top in Great Smoky Mountains. Of course, grab a hiking partner and plan to get wet, because the view from the top and the tunnels of green are worth it.

High Dune, Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, CO

Who doesn't like to play in the sand, especially when surrounded on three sides by 14,000 foot mountains and on one side by biologically diverse marshlands? And hiking 3 miles to the top of some of the tallest dunes in North America just adds bragging rights. Make sure to pack plenty of water and sunscreen before you tackle this hike!

Hidden Canyon, Zion National Park, UT

A lush, cool canyon hidden away on the wall of an even bigger canyon, all in the heart of a desert? Yeah, that's what you get when you make the trek to Zion's Hidden Canyon. Getting here is half the fun and not for someone afraid of heights; there are several sections of chains to grip along the narrow parts of this cliffside trail.

Angel's Landing, Zion National Park, UT

Another trail for those with no fear, the hike to Angel's Landing is short but absolutely not easy. The entire last quarter mile to the Landing is located on the ridge of a narrow fin, with a chain to help keep you from falling off. The challenge makes the trail popular though, so don't expect to be alone up there.

Tonto Trail, Grand Canyon National Park, AZ

A less-used connector trail in the mid-elevations of the Grand Canyon, this trail hosts some pretty awesome backcountry camping sites and all but guarantees you solitude. Be warned, you're looking at a minimum 3 night trip to do even a small section of this trail, including descending to it and ascending from it on trails from the rim of the canyon on your first and last days.

Thunder Pass via Box Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO

Another trail that, while technically can be used as a day hike, is much more rewarding if you stay at the backcountry site along the way. Right at the edge of the park, Thunder Pass marks the park boundary. On one side is the park, on the other a national forest area, with trails leading to the pass from both sides.

Sky Pond, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO

I don't know anyone who doesn't love alpine lakes, and pretty trails along glacier basins to get to said lakes are even better. Done as a day hike this trail isn't too strenuous or too long, and as long as you're below treeline before the summer afternoon storms hit, every step is worth it!

Buffalo River Trail, Buffalo National River, AR

A friend and I spent a couple years section-hiking this 30+ mile trail during autumn in the Ozarks of northern Arkansas, and we enjoyed our time there so much we're heading back again now that we're finished to hike the shorter trails in the area. We aren't quite ready to give the Buffalo River up yet!

I hope these snapshots and glimpses onto my favorite trails inspire you to hit your own local trail, if not today then maybe sometime soon! If you go, send me a picture so I can check it out too!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Hohokam Petroglyphs

Nestled within the acres of Saguaro National Park are several sites of thousand-year-old petroglyphs, pecked into the dark desert rocks by prehistoric hunter-gatherers. While no one knows what these symbols mean, whether they are spiritual, directions, or graffiti, the fact that someone once took the time to chisel designs into rock, and that these designs have endured a thousand years of weathering and human fascination, speaks to both the determination of those who put them there and the arid desert climate. Abstract designs are typical of the Hohokam petroglyphs, far more prevalent than life forms, with an emphasis on circular and spiral designs. I don't know about you, but that's a motif I can get behind!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Hedgehog Cactus

There is such thing as a HEDGEHOG CACTUS!!!! Y'all, I had no idea (or maybe I did but had forgotten over the years) that there were little cacti colonies called hedgehog cacti, and I might have squeaked out loud when I found them while visiting Saguaro National Park over the winter. I'm not even sorry, I was SO excited! This little plant combines a couple of my loves: hedgehogs (yes, the animal, I have a few of my own as pets) and cacti! Now, I have no idea how well these guys grow in East Texas, but I sure as hell want to find out. I'm on the hunt for some of my own now, so do your girl a favor and let me know if you ever find any for sale!
Please note, I would never go out and dig one up from it's natural habitat, especially not in a national park. I'd rather find a reputable plant farm and buy one from them.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Barrel Cactus

I will never get tired of cacti and their multitude of uses (plus they look awesome and are incredibly easy to care for). This neat plant, for example, has hooked spines that can be used as sewing needles and fish hooks! I mean for real, multi-purpose items are kind of like the holy grail of hiking and backpacking, and by extension surviving in harsh desert environments like the ancient southwestern Native Americans did. Not only is this plant useful in more than one way, it's pleat-like folds swell to soak up water during rare rain showers, making it a barrel, indeed!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Agave

It's amazing how many desert plants can provide nutrients, especially for humans. Yes, while agave is currently featured in the latest health fad, agave has actually been used as a food source for humans dwelling in the American Southwest for hundreds of years. Their "hearts", or the center of the flower stalk, can be roasted and eaten, in addition to the nectar used to make a sugar substitute. It was so neat to see this spiky yucca-like plant in its native range while wandering around the Arizona deserts over the winter, and I kind of can't quit daydreaming about going back sometime soon.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Living on Cacti

Did you know there are birds out there whose whole lives revolve around cacti? Take the Gila Woodpecker, pictured above, for example. This little bird nests inside cavities in saguaro cacti, they eat the bugs that live on and near saguaros, they raise their fledglings and learn to fly off of saguaros. Can you see in the photo how this little one is perching on the top of the cacti? How freakin' neat is that!? While I was busy snapping photos of these birds in the early morning sun at Saguaro National Park near Tucson, AZ, Hoodoo was busy watching them intently with the tip of his tail flicking back and forth. Don't worry, he was on leash and I would never let him hurt a bird, but it was kind of adorable to watch. My adventure kitten being a real cat! He wouldn't have gotten too far, though, we were absolutely surrounded by cacti of all kinds. What a great defense mechanism, huh?

Saguaro

Admiring. There really is nothing quite like waking up surrounded by giant cacti. Even if the temperatures hovered around freezing, even if I slept in my car on the side of the road because I arrived too late to get a campsite and I was not about to drive any further in the dark, even if I barely slept due to a combination of chill and worry. When dawn began to light up the sky and the silhouettes of cacti arms solidified out of the frosty air, there was nowhere else I would have rather been. My visit to Saguaro National Park in southern Arizona was the result of my stubborn streak: I want pictures of saguaro cacti for the walls in my kitchen, and I would much rather take the photos myself than buy someone else's. So I made a trip out of it this winter when I was already in Arizona helping with the Grandmaster Ultras, taking off on my own for a few more days of desert bliss once the race was finished.

I had a few hours to kill between dawn and the park's visitor center opening, but I made good use of my time. I have well over a hundred photos of saguaro cacti to take my pick from for printing and hanging, and to be honest I'm not sure how I'll decide. I was able to take Hoodoo with me on the park's pet-friendly nature trail, where we explored the desert flora and watched a couple of coyotes from a distance.

I also drove the park's scenic loop, stopping at a short trail to some petroglyphs where I left Hoodoo in the car while I explored. (Don't worry, I would never do that if it were hot out! As it was winter, he was safe and comfortable in the car.) It was pretty neat to walk among the cactus forest, even if it was only for a short hike.

Saguaro is actually divided into two parts, East and West, so once the visitor center opened and I purchased my customary magnet and park patch I headed over to the other side of Tucson to visit the second unit. I stopped at the visitor center despite already having my souvenirs, thinking I might as well. Then I hit the park road loop, driving the cactus forest and day dreaming about hiking.

I spent the vast majority of my time taking pictures of cacti, which of course is the draw to the park, but the next time I visit I won't bring Hoodoo with me and plan on hitting the trails for as long as possible. I traced some amazing trails that I would love to backpack someday, really getting to know the park and everything it has to offer.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Get The Shot

Time for another confession: the whole reason I went to Tucson in February was because I want to put photos of saguaro cacti in my kitchen (subtly desert-themed), and instead of buying prints from someone I'd rather just take the pictures myself. Which is why I headed south in a roundabout way after leaving Littlefield, AZ and the Grandmaster Ultras race I volunteered at, trying my best to get to Saguaro National Park and an abundance of Saguaro cacti. I didn't begin seeing saguaros until I passed a rest area called "Sunset Point" on the interstate, after which the road dropped drastically in elevation and giant cacti started to pop out of the hills. I wanted to make it to the park that night, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to begin taking photos. You should have seen me, leaving the interstate every few exits, driving around dirt roads in the middle of nowhere, Arizona, taking pictures of cacti. Even as the sun set and I was an hour or more away from my destination, I was still on the side of some dirt road somewhere southeast of Phoenix, crouching down to get a silhouette of cacti against the sunset. I now have over a hundred photos of saguaro cacti, and yes, I got the ones I wanted for my kitchen!

Leave me a comment below and tell me about a time you did whatever it took (safely!) to get a picture you wanted. I want to hear some fun stories!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Marble Canyon

No, it's not really made of marble, but the canyon carved through rust-red sandstone by the Colorado River as it makes its way toward the Grand Canyon might as well be. Or, at least the water in the river might be made of green marble for all its swirls and eddies. I stopped at an overlook as I crossed the Colorado River for the last time during my trip to the Southwest in February, and couldn't help but stare down at the absolutely green waters of the river far below. I mean, I've seen blue rivers, red rivers, brown rivers, but this green was something new. With all the silt churning in it, the waters really kind of did look like marble. I would absolutely love to get the chance to raft that river someday; someday I'll make it happen. For now, I'll content myself with admiring from above.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: California Condors

I SAW CONDORS!! Do you have any idea how excited I was (and still am!) to have the chance to see these incredible, highly endangered birds? I mean, I'm a bird nerd, alright?? I had pulled over at an overlook right on the Colorado River south of the Utah/Arizona border, meaning to get out and look at the river. There happened to be a few Native Americans selling jewelry and trinkets set up in the lot, and I took the time to browse through their goods. I got to chatting with a couple ladies when one of them suddenly points over my head and said "oh look, condors" like it was no big deal. I got way too excited and ran back to my car to get my telephoto lens, but by the time I returned they had perched on a cliff just a little too far out of my lens range. I hung around for an hour (no, I'm not kidding) waiting to see if they would fly. They did, but in the wrong direction! I'd wanted them to fly over me, or at least a little closer, but they took off down canyon and I didn't get my shot. That's okay though, I'm already planning my return trip next year. Maybe I'll be in the right place at the right time to see these amazing birds again. And I walked away this year with a few pictures and and a pretty little kokopelli necklace, so I really can't complain.

Leave me a comment below and tell me if you've ever seen a California Condor!

Desert Castles and Cat Walks

Joyous. When chasing wintertime sun and heat, you head south. This was exactly what I was doing when I decided to take a side trip to Montezuma Castle National Monument as I drove south from Zion National Park (where I had spent the night tent camping with temperatures around 10 degrees). I had been cruising along pretty well on the interstate south of Flagstaff when I noticed signs for Montezuma Castle. Being me, I couldn't pass up a visit to a national parks unit so close to my route, so Hoodoo and I got off the interstate to make a stop. We weren't disappointed! While I always enjoy seeing Pueblo ruins, especially those built into alcoves like the one above, this little national monument gets extra points because I could bring Hoodoo on the short paved loop trail to the views!

Bringing a pet on national park/monument trails is almost unheard of, due to a number of factors including resource preservation, wildlife safety, public safety, and the pet's own safety. There are a few units where pets are allowed (looking at you, Great Sand Dunes!) but for the most part pets are restricted to the roads, parking lots, and established campgrounds of most parks. When I checked in at the visitor center I asked the rangers if pets were allowed. When they confirmed, I got probably a little too excited and told them about Hoodoo. Well, who doesn't love an adventure cat? The ladies at Montezuma Castle certainly did, and they came out to meet him. He was perfect, walking on his leash even in a group of other visitors as we made our collective way along the path. He paused to sniff everything (I swear he's more like a dog than a cat!) and took his time wandering down the trail, but we weren't in a hurry. The sun felt great, it was warm enough for only a light jacket, and we were close enough to our destination near Tucson that I didn't feel the need to rush. And the ruins of Montezuma Castle? Icing on the cake of a gorgeous walk.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Vermilion Cliffs

A short trip down a snowy dirt road was not nearly enough to satisfy my curiosity about Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in northern Arizona, but it'll have to do for now. I will definitely need a 4-wheel drive vehicle the next time I want to explore this enormous monument on the Utah/Arizona border, but on this day in February I drove as far as I was comfortable along that road until the snow drifts encroached on the road, then turned around. I did get the chance to step out of the car at a couple of pull-outs, though! Did you know California Condors aren't just native to California? Some can be found in Arizona, like the ones reintroduced to the Vermilion Cliffs area. These birds are huge, eclipsing all other birds of prey found in North America. I even got the chance to see a couple, but that's for a later post!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Shooting the Moon

As I get more comfortable with my camera I spend more time taking pictures of things I'm less practiced with. Astrophotography, for example. I have very little idea what I'm doing when it comes to taking pictures of the moon and stars, but hey, no time like the present to figure it out. I spent some time during both nights in the desert while volunteering at an aid station for the Grandmaster Ultras in February, trying my hand at shooting the crescent moon. The skies were far too bright, from Saint George, from Mesquite, from Las Vegas, to shoot anything other than the moon, but that was fine with me. The moon itself wasn't bright enough to cast shadows, and paled in comparison to the light pollution in multiple directions, but that didn't stop me from hooking my camera onto my tripod and attempting a few photos. All said and done I'm happy with my attempts, though I know I need a better camera and a better lens to get the clear, close photos of Earth's lunar companion. Someday I'll get there.

Leave me a comment below and tell me if you've ever attempted photographing the moon. How'd it go?