A Snapshot and The Scoop: Lakeside Beach, An East Coast Epic Story

The final Great Lake I visited last summer was Lake Ontario, and I'm honestly a little disappointed I didn't get to touch it. I made a point to walk a bit in both Lake Michigan and Lake Erie, but the little state park I stopped at in New York, Lakeside Beach State Park, was situated on some cliffs above the lake, and it was impractical (at least from where I was standing) to try to get down to touch the water. Instead, I meandered along the edge of the cliffs, accidentally interrupting a group playing disc golf (which I thought was rather brave - what if you threw the disc off the cliff by accident??) as I wandered. I could see where the lake deepened, where the waves turned from murky brown to the deepest of blues, and watched a few boaters take on the choppy, windy waters. Next time I'm in the area I'll be visiting the remaining two Great Lakes, Superior and Huron, and I'll be sure to step foot in Lake Ontario, just to say I did.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Presque Isle, An East Coast Epic Story

My solo East Coast adventure last year took me to three of the five Great Lakes - Lake Michigan, Lake Erie, and Lake Ontario. My stop on Lake Erie was at Presque Isle State Park, a little spit of land featuring a gorgeous drive, bays and beaches, and an old lighthouse with its own courtyard. I arrived after closing time so was unable to tour the lighthouse, but greatly enjoyed my drive around the peninsula, making sure to get out a couple times to wet my toes in the lake and enjoy the breeze. I saw people boating, paddle boarding, kayaking, and swimming, which of course made me wish I'd brought my swimsuit along so I could go for a dip without ruining one of the few changes of clothes I had with me. There's always next time!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: The Panne, An East Coast Epic Story

Created by wind and water, shallow bowls form among the dunes at Indiana Dunes National Park. If they're deep enough they can reach the water table, bringing fresh water to the surface and creating a little oasis away from the windy churning depths of Lake Michigan. These bowls, called a panne, house and shelter a variety of plant species that would otherwise find it difficult to grow on the dunes at the mercy of the winds, which in turn create excellent cover for small mammals to thrive. The panne I visited early in the morning of my visit to the park was almost perfectly still with only a little breeze ruffling the waters, despite the steady winds coming across the lake just over the lip of the bowl. Toads croaked from the shoreline and a couple of waterfowl rustled in the nearby reeds; the world waking up to a new day on the lake.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Shifting Dunes, An East Coast Epic Story

Anybody who's ever gone to a beach can tell you: sand moves. Anybody who's ever seen a field of sand dunes can tell you even better: sand moves a lot. It's one thing to know sand moves, but it's quite another to actually see the evidence right in front of you in the form of half-buried trees. These trees sprouted on fairly flat ground, but over time the sand dunes at Indiana Dunes National Park have shifted further inland, pushed by the winds across Lake Michigan, and are slowly burying the forest in front of them. Already trees are fully buried by the sands, making the dunes unstable when they rot and leave empty cavities that collapse without warning, causing more sand to shift. Dunes are active, flowing things, moving slowly but steadily one grain at a time. You just have to wait around long enough to see the proof yourself.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Indiana Dunes, An East Coast Epic Story

The first stop on my East Coast Epic was the nation's newest national park: Indiana Dunes. Actually, it was my second stop if you count an overnight at my parent's house to get my camping gear back from my sister and to celebrate the 4th of July, but Indiana Dunes was my first stop to camp, hike, and generally explore. Alone. For ten days. And let me tell you, it did not disappoint. Indiana Dunes is situated at the southern tip of Lake Michigan, close enough that you can see the silhouette of Chicago to the west on a clear day. The park preserves miles of beach and coastline, historic buildings, and you guessed it, sand dunes. Sand dunes seem to be a theme of my travels this year, but at least I didn't break my wrist this time. (My wrist was still in the brace when I set out on this adventure, and didn't come off until I was more than halfway finished.) But I digress; I arrived at the park in the evening and spent the rest of the daylight hours chasing photos. The next morning I was up early, determined to catch sunrise over the lake. Given that it was a holiday weekend during the summer I expected a lot more people on the beach early on, but aside from a couple of joggers and a grizzled fisherman, I was alone. It wasn't quiet, not with the wind and the waves and the occasional gull, but it was peaceful and an excellent start to my adventures. I couldn't wait to see what else was in store for me through the rest of the week travelling around the east coast.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Find the Gator

A recent weekend spent down along the Gulf Coast of Texas yielded more than even I had hoped when planning my get-away. The first stop of the day was Brazos Bend, my go-to place for alligators. These living dinosaurs live in the park year-round, as they do in most of east and south Texas, but heading there in the winter when the plant life has died back a bit makes the gators even easier to see. I saw eleven gators on this trip, including a huge one out of the water just off the trail. I had both Hoodoo and Callie with me, but I kept them in my arms while skirting the edges of the lakes and sloughs, not at all interested in losing one of my babies to a hungry gator. While I am absolutely positive there were way more than eleven gators who could see me, their camouflage and general lack of movement made them less than easy to find. A little thrill of excitement shot through me every time I managed to spot one, looking more for their angular head or their serrated tail than anything else.

Leave me a comment and tell me if you see the gator in the photo above! I have several more photos of gators that are hidden even better!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Government Ditch

If you ever get a chance to take a boat tour on Caddo Lake in East Texas, do it! I had the opportunity to go this summer, and it was fantastic! Our boat guide was incredibly knowledgeable, and took us on a route through the swampy lake that he clearly knew by heart. The "ditch" pictured above was cleared out by the government in order to make room for steam engines, which at that time were the primary mode of transporting goods, and involved tearing out the cypress trees and dredging the canal to make it deep enough to get a boat through. A lot of Caddo Lake is a mixture of shallow waters and sopping wet land that rises just a few inches above the waterline, surrounded by the world's largest cypress forest. At any given time the land could be submerged or truly dry, depending on the water levels of the lake. Caddo's history is rich, and I wouldn't do it justice to try to summarize here. From the Caddo Native Americans to the wild west pioneers, to the civil war soldiers and the Great Depression's Civilian Conservation Corp, and the World War that followed, Texas history permeates even the air you breathe. Do yourself a favor, and if you're in my neck of the woods take an hour or two and get out on the lake. Who knows, you may even see an alligator.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: When It Speaks, You Listen

Take a second look at the picture above. That shell-shaped cone, on the edge of Yellowstone Lake right in the center of the giant cauldera that is Yellowstone National Park, is a geyser. One of the first geothermal features Alisha and I saw while visiting Yellowstone this past summer, we didn't get to see this particular geyser erupt, but knowing that it could and how gorgeous it would be against the backdrop of the lake and distant mountains spoke to me in a way that I'm still not sure I understand. Sometimes things talk to you, and you listen, even if you don't comprehend what is being said. 

A Snapshot and The Scoop: High Water Marks

Whenever you hike, camp, or really in general travel, it is always good to observe your surroundings in greater detail than you would were you at home. High water marks are something I always notice when I'm around any body of water, whether it's a stream, a lake, or the ocean. First of all, as a camper it is imperative I pitch my tent above the highest place water can get, so I don't get swept away in the night. Noticing flood debris like logs or boulders wedged in weird places tells me how high I need to climb should I be caught in a rain storm.. The waterlines on lakes, especially dam-controlled lakes, are less dire to notice but I still like to look and imagine the lake at full capacity. No waterlines? It's likely the water is as high as it's ever been!

Leave me a comment and let me know if I'm the only one to notice high water marks. Anyone else?

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Deserted Swim Beaches

Have you ever been to a swim beach in the off-season? Usually in the winter, when it's too cold to lounge around in swim suits, or otherwise everyone is in school or at work and nobody has time to play. As someone who immensely enjoys traveling during the off-season I've seen my share of near-empty places that are "supposed" to be full of people. Usually this doesn't bother me (yay quiet and solitude) but there is just something about empty swim beaches that is disconcerting. I can't put my finger on why this bothers me so much, but I know I don't like to linger in these places.

Leave me a comment below and tell me if you know the feeling I'm talking about. Are you uncomfortable in similar situations?

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Potatoes

While exploring in Rocky Mountain National Park this past August Torrey and I stumbled across a potato floating in a mountain lake. Seriously. Somebody had brought a potato three miles up a mountain and it had somehow ended up in that lake. Seeing it got us talking and we discovered that we both love eating raw potatoes! How did didn't know this about each other after almost twenty years I don't know, but as soon as we had finished our hike we decided to slip into town and stop at a store that just so happened to sell little potatoes - perfect for snacking on in the backcountry. Score!!

Leave me a comment and tell me if you like raw potatoes. Some people do, some don't, and I want to know who my fellow potato lovers are!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: McBride Canyon

Have you ever started something and realized pretty quickly that it maybe wasn't the best idea? That happened to me when I visited McBride Canyon at Lake Meredith National Recreation Area. I descended down into the canyon and saw the pavement change into dirt. Cool, right? Then more dirt roads started branching off of mine, until I realized I would likely end up lost on those roads without a map, or else I would spend a lot more time in the wide canyon than I wanted to when I was on my way to Colorado already. I turned around the first chance I got, but I would love to go back someday when I do have more time to go exploring. I would love to camp down there!

Leave me a comment and tell me about a time you realized something wasn't smart. I know I'm not the only one!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Parselmouth

Jared always seems to find snakes. At work he all but attracts snakes like rat snakes, king snakes, and copperheads. While we were in Minnesota on our cross-country roadtrip last June we stopped at Itasca State Park to check out the headwaters of the Mississippi River. While there, guess what Jared found! This cute little garter snake is harmless, mostly eating insects and minnows if it can catch them, and Jared scooped it up to show our niece, Charlotte. She really didn't have any interest in the snake and Jared let it go away from the crowd of people, but I wouldn't have been surprised to see the snake following Jared around after. Its a good thing Jared and I both like snakes!

Leave me a comment below and tell me about an animal that you seem to have an affinity for! You all know I have a thing for squirrels, I want to know what likes you!

Rocky Mountain Adventures: Unfinished Business

Pacified. I don't like leaving things unfinished. It feels wrong, and it bothers me if something is half completed. Maybe that's the perfectionist in me, that Type A personality, or whatever, but this aversion to unfulfilled tasks is what led Torrey and I to plan an ambitious ten mile dayhike in between backpacking treks while at Rocky Mountain National Park in August. We had attempted to hike up to Sky Pond last year after our epic hike to Andrew's Glacier, but were forced to give it up and turn around less than half a mile from our goal due to a storm that blew in off the Continental Divide. This year we were determined to finish it.

We got up and packed our camp at Glacier Basin as the sun rose, driving to the trailhead where we would leave to go backpacking later in the day. We caught the park's shuttle up to Sky Pond's trail and finally began. We hiked quickly, feeling as light as a feather without our heavy backpacks, flying up the mountain trail to our first stop at The Loch. We had stopped at this gorgeous pond on our previous hike in the area and it still ranks as one of the prettiest mountain lakes I've had the pleasure of hiking to. We took a lot of pictures, spending about twenty minutes enjoying the early morning and mountain views before continuing on.

We continued to make great time up until we began the approach to Timberline Falls. Here, I lagged behind. The trail becomes steep and slippery, with wooden and stone steps cutting into the mountain in front of you. If I learned anything on this trip its that climbing is my downfall; whether that is actually climbing up something or otherwise using my feet (and still sometimes hands) to gain elevation. I can handle coming down like nobody's business, but if you ask me to go up something I will come in dead last. Oh well, something for me to work on, right? Once I finally reached the falls the fun really began: we had to climb them. Yes, I mean actually climb up a waterfall. It was scary, trying to climb up the slippery, wet rocks while water rushed down next to you, but I made it up after much huffing and puffing and cursing. I was greeted by Glass Lake at the top, stretching from the falls back almost as far as I could see. Last year the lake was grey and choppy, stirred by the storm; this year a calm lake lay at our feet, surrounded by deep green trees under a bright and sunny sky.

Torrey and I spent a little time at Glass Lake, taking in the view, before finding the trail that winds along next to it on the approach to Sky Pond. Beyond Glass Lake, the trail is amazing. Beautiful wetland meadows full of flowers lay in between small rocky rises and the stream that feeds both Glass Lake and Timberline Falls splashes and plays among small cascades. When we finally reached Sky Pond under blue skies it was to see a clear, deep green alpine lake just above treeline, fed by one of the few glaciers left in the park. We clambered down to the water's edge, picking a spot in the sun and enjoying a few well-earned snacks next to the gorgeous little pond. Time seemed to stand still while we sat there, and we only decided to leave when we ran out of snacks.

The return trip flew by, with Torrey and I fast walking, sometimes jogging, down the trail past other hikers on their way up. We reached the trailhead in record time, marking our fastest round trip hiking time at 10.40 miles in four and a half hours, including stops at The Loch, Glass Lake, Sky Pond, Timberline Falls, and other short rests (where I took pictures of waterfalls) along the way. I'm still not completely sure how we managed to hike up and down the mountain so fast, with the only plausable explanation being that we had grown used to mountain climbing with heavy packs, and once we removed those we could fly.

We're more than halfway through my Rocky Mountain Adventures, but I'm not done yet! Read my other stories about The Eclipse here, Skeleton Gulch here, Box Canyon here, Thunder Pass here, and Glacier Basin here.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Late Sunsets

Something I've never really thought about was the sun and its movement through the sky relative to a person's location. On our trip up north this past June I got a reminder that not everybody has the same sun as I do back home in Texas. We were so far north in the summer that sunsets there were late, much later than I was used to. It was 9:30pm and the sun was still in the sky, and sunsets lingered past 10:30pm. I'm a sunrise-sunset girl, but 10:30pm is past my bedtime! I stayed up a few times but mostly was asleep at my normal time - before the sun slipped below the horizon.

Leave me a comment below and tell me if you've noticed the sun sets at different times depending on how far north or south you are. Was it just me who was surprised?

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Fort Stevenson State Park

Our trip up north this past June took Jared and I to visit family in North Dakota, where we also slipped in a visit to the local state park, Fort Stevenson. Located on the shore of Lake Sakakawea, Fort Stevenson is a gateway onto the lake but also holds its own as a historical park. The fort was used in the early days of trapping and exploring the wild west, and was a stop along the way to gold mines in Montana and Idaho, but today only a replica of the main building remains. It was still neat to learn about the history of the area and how things used to be for those who settled nearby. Its always fun to go to parks like this, to see how things had been.

Leave me a comment below and tell me if you think historical parks like this are neat, or are they boring?

Exploring with Family

Stoked. I am so flipping excited: I have a whole new family I get to explore with! Back in June when Jared and I visited his family in the northern part of the country I got to know my soon-to-be in-laws a little bit better. We spent several days with Jared's family at a resort near Bemidji, MN, and aside from the kayaking, swimming, campfires, and cookouts we held, Jared's parents, siblings, little niece, and I took off for an afternoon to explore the nearby town and state park.

Our first stop was Babe the Blue Ox and Paul Bunyan, located on the shores of Lake Bemidji. Charlotte, our niece, wasn't too sure about Babe at first, but when Jared picked her up and pointed out the ox's butt from the parking lot where we stood she seemed to get over her hesitation pretty quickly. Quickly enough to pick Babe's nose, anyway. Her and Uncle Jared had a good time picking noses and pointing out Babe's rear end every time they had a chance.

From Bemidji we headed to Itasca State Park, a mid-sized park located less than an hour from town that just so happened to contain the lake that is considered the headwaters of the Mississippi River. You read that right. We got to see where the Mighty Mississippi begins its course across the country, until it runs into the Gulf of Mexico. It was full of other visitors, of course, but we couldn't pass up the chance to walk across the headwaters of the river, though it is a relatively small stream at its beginning. We spent some time splashing around in the water with Charlotte and Adam, Jared's brother, while we were watched by Jared's parents, Chuck and Renee, and Adam's wife, Kelli. Jared, Adam, Charlotte, and I all pulled off our shoes and walked across the Mississippi River!

We spent a couple hours in the park before heading back to the resort for dinner, but I'm sure it was only the first time I get to explore with my new family members. I'm determined to take Kelli on a camping trip, and I can't wait for Charlotte to grow up enough to go adventuring with me as well. Who knows, maybe we can get the whole Johnson family together for a camping trip some time in the near future. We can even bring a camper and have things like air conditioning and running water. It'll be fun, I promise!

Kayaking with Jared

Enthusiastic. You guys know I hardly ever get to travel with Jared. On the rare occasions that he does travel with me it is usually on a trip to visit family or to meet up with family, though he did go with me to the Wizarding World of Harry Potter - where he proposed! This past June he and I embarked on a nearly two week adventure where we went and saw a large part of his family in North Dakota and Minnesota, as well as my parents and siblings in Nebraska, and we also just so happened to get married while we were up there.

Anyway, one of the places we visited was the town of Bemidji, MN and a resort called Finn'n Feather, where we spent several days with his extended family celebrating his grandparent's 60th wedding anniversary. The resort is located on a lake, one of the 10,000 or so in Minnesota, so of course we all took advantage of staying right on the water. Most of us fished, some of us swam out to the water toys, and a few of us took boats, kayaks, paddle boats, and stand-up paddle boards to explore the lake.

Well, this was one of the few times I could convince Jared to go exploring with me, so we strapped on life vests, grabbed a couple of paddles and kayaks, and hit the water. We paddled around the resort's shore for a bit, then decided to head across the lake and explore the opposite shore. He and I spent several hours on the water, poking around the reeds and water lilies to see whatever we could. The lake was calm and the wind wasn't bad, making it a perfect day for kayaking. We heard loons calling and saw a bald eagle soaring overhead, while closer to home dragonflies played among the grasses and we got showered in baby spiders as we pushed through the reeds along the shore.

We saw lots of little fish and a few big ones in the green-hued but incredibly clear water, and back towards the resort we saw turtles among the yellow water plants, poking their heads above the water for a breath. We headed in when we got hungry, though not without splashing each other a little bit, and Jared chasing me around threatening to flip my kayak. We found out I'm faster than him in a sprint, but he can outlast me if it came down to it... Oh, the things you learn.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Pike's Peak, Year Three

Another August, another trip to Pike's Peak, CO with Torrey! This view of the 14'er was taken from Crystal Reservoir in Pike National Forest, along the road to the top of the mountain. Every year since 2014 I have gone with Torrey to Pike's Peak for the Ascent/Marathon that takes place on the third weekend of August. The first year we watched her dad run; the second year I cheered on Torrey and her dad as they ran the ascent together; this year I cheered them on again as they ran the marathon. We're not sure about next year yet, but who knows...maybe I'll be running it with them?

Leave me a comment below and tell me if I'm crazy for even entertaining that idea...

ALLIGATORS!!

Elated. I had three main concerns: keeping my camera gear dry, making sure Callie didn't get bitten by a venomous snake, and making sure Callie didn't get eaten by an alligator. The order of those concerns depended on what was happening around us. I took a much needed break from life at the end of October and headed out of town with my dog, driving south towards the Gulf Coast as quickly as I could. Our first stop of the day was Brazos Bend State Park, a park known for its alligator population. I've lived in Texas for a year and eight months, and hadn't yet seen one of the famed reptiles, but it wasn't for lack of trying; I'd intentionally canoed several parks in East Texas and along the coast just to look for gators, but had no luck. I knew that if I went to Brazos Bend and still didn't see a gator, I never would.

The first thing I did when reaching the park is drive straight to Elm Lake, which is a hot spot where you're almost guaranteed to see one. Callie and I hopped onto the observation deck, but aside from a beaver and several dozen birds, nothing popped out of the water. We hit the trail that traces the rectangular lake, walking slowly while I scanned the water for anything that might resemble a gator's head. Callie wasn't aware that this was a special walk, other than I wouldn't let her anywhere near the water. I kept her close to my side, unwilling to let her wander too close to the edge of the trail. It wasn't until I'd gone about a quarter of the way around the lake that it finally happened: ALLIGATOR!! A group of other walkers had stopped a little ways ahead of us, pointing at the water. I knew what was happening, and sped up, not wanting to miss it. And there it was! A big one, about ten feet from the shore and about twenty feet from where we stood, watching us with its eyes and snout sticking out of the water in the classic gator pose. I quickly pulled Callie behind me and even closer, so that she was practically sitting on my heels as I faced the gator. I snapped more photos than I'd like to admit before finally moving on.

The trail we were on kept Elm Lake on the left, while on the right and slightly lower than trail level the marshes of the park sprawled beyond sight. We hadn't gone more than thirty feet when a small family passed us, telling me to keep my eyes on the right as there were several small gators right near the bank. Sure enough, there were! Much smaller than the first guy we saw, there were three gators about a foot off the bank and a fourth one in a tangle of tree roots on the bank itself. Keeping Callie close again, though she was probably bigger than these gators, I snapped my photos, did an internal dance of excitement, and went on. Then, of course, it started to rain. The shower didn't last long, but it lasted long enough and came down hard enough to force me to find shelter under overhanging trees in an attempt to keep my camera equipment dry. While I was trying to shield my electronics, the sun shown under the cloudburst briefly, lighting the raindrops into brilliant, fiery jewels against the backdrop of the lake and forest, turning the whole trail into a sparkling wonderland. Then the sun was gone, the rain stopped, and we finished our circuit without any more excitement.

From Elm Lake we hiked a double loop encompassing Horseshoe Lakes and Big Creek Trail, which turned out to be a lovely stroll through the wooded, mostly dry section of the park. There were a pair of oxbow or horseshoe lakes, where I was able to spot a couple of big gators from the bank above the lakes, then the trail looped back into the bottomland forests hung with spanish moss and blanketed with wildlflowers. Even at the end of October flowers were in bloom, and the leaves were only just beginning to change colors on the trees. It was here, with little piles of leaf litter strewn across the path, that I began to worry about snakes. Texas is home to several venomous snakes, and a recent sighting of a coral snake back home had me jumpy. I'm not afraid of snakes (I own two myself) but I do worry about being bitten by one while out on the trail, or of my dog being bitten and not being able to do anything about it. As such, we went cautiously, making lots of noise with my feet and giving any critters nearby plenty of time to slither out of sight. We didn't see any reptiles other than the gators on our hike, and despite the fact that I love seeing snakes on the trail, I wasn't disappointed. None of my concerns materialized, and I finally saw an alligator (seven of them!); goal achieved.