Wednesday, December 31, 2014

The "Happy" Jar of 2014


Relief. That's what I'm currently feeling now that 2014's hours are numbered. Of course, every year has it's goods and bads, but I feel like 2014 had a lot more dramatic swings to either extreme, with not a whole lot in the middle. Between my 16 different trips, my serious health concerns, major changes in my personal life, deaths in the family, and overwhelming support from all of my closest friends and family, 2014 has definitely been a year for the books. I have many more stories to tell about my year's travels, but they will have to wait for future posts in 2015.


At the moment, I want to take some time and reflect on how good this year has been. I try, very hard, to be a positive person. Sometimes, however, I need to remind myself that I have plenty to be happy about, especially when it seems like nothing is going right for me. I knew that 2014 was going to be a tough year for me, that it was going to test my optimistic personality and bring me a fair share of unhappy things. Then again, on this night one year ago, I also made my Resolution to travel as often as time and money permitted. I knew that I would have to focus on the positives in my life, no matter how small or stupid they seemed. So, I stole an idea from Pinterest and made myself a "happy" jar.


Every time something made happy, even fleetingly, it got written down on a colorful little sticky note and placed into the jar. Something as small as taking a bubble bath? Write it down!


Something as big as spending a week in my favorite place on the planet? Write it down!


Did I get to have a Skype date with someone I haven't heard from in a while? Guess what: write it down! It helped me keep my optimism even at the worst times of the year.


While I was at my grandma's funeral I shared a golden moment surrounded by my family and some of our closest friends. I looked around at everybody brought together by the death of one of the most wonderful ladies I knew, and I was overwhelmed at how much love could be shared in one place. Even during a loss, I found happiness.


When I was first diagnosed with autoimmune hepatitis, I was crushed. I kept going over everything I will likely never enjoy again, like a big glass (bottle) of the finest Port or Petite Syrrah I could find. Then the texts, emails, phone calls and visits started accumulating. I realized that I have an enormous, incredible support network of friends and family who care about me, and I was astonished at the outpouring of love and support sent my way. Even during sickness, I found happiness.


My boyfriend was suddenly offered a job three states away, he accepted and moved abruptly. Once he got there and got a little settled in he called me late one night, waking me up so that we could have our first Skype date. We talked for over an hour. Even during an upheaval in my personal life, I found happiness.


I truly have had a wonderful year, and even now need to remind myself that the good things have far outweighed the bad. I have a lot of wonderful activities and changes to look forward to in 2015, and have high standards to make next year live up to this one. I did not spend nearly enough time on my bike in 2014, and I want to change that in the new year. I also really, really want to keep traveling, maybe not as much as I did this year, but enough to satisfy my wanderlust and squash my cabin fever. In that line of thought, I am announcing my 2015 New Year's Resolution! In 2015 I will bike a minimum of 100 miles each month, with the sole stipulation that at least 300 of those miles will be in a state besides the one in which I am living.


I can't wait for the adventures of 2015! Bring on the new year!

What I'm listening to: Ready the Ships by John Powell

Wednesday, December 24, 2014

2014 New Year's Resolution Wrap-up


Joy! I actually accomplished my New Year's Resolution, decided in the middle of a cold winter when my cabin fever seemed like it would crush me. I set out to explore my state and surrounding country once a month, to drive and drive and drive to my heart's content. Sometimes I went alone, more often I had a companion or two along for the ride. Following is an overview of all of my 16 different road trips over the past year, along with the statistics of my vacations that probably only I find interesting.


A homestead house in Homestead National Monument
January: Homestead National Monument in Beatrice, NE. A couple of friends and I spent hours exploring this little monument tucked in the southeast corner of the state. It was a beautiful January day, warm enough for long sleeves and jeans. We even got to hike a bit in the prairie.

Megan and I getting ready to ski
 February: Two trips this month, the first was skiing at Mount Crescent, IA. Can you believe there is skiing in the Midwest? It's nothing like the slopes of the Rockies, but the Loess Hills along the Missouri River do the best they can! My friend Megan and I spent half the day on the slope, and once we had taken the refresher course on how to ski (and stop) we got on the lift and had a blast! It was a cold and snowy day, and it was perfect.

Marley on the beach at Merritt Reservoir
My second trip in February was a weekend trip to Valentine, NE and Merritt Reservoir. I have always loved Bald Eagles, and in the winter months they congregate around open water so they can continue to eat. The reservoir rarely freezes over entirely, so it's a magnet for eagles. Marley and I got up early in the morning on a Saturday, drove the five hours to the reservoir and were not disappointed! SO MANY EAGLES! We enjoyed ourselves driving around the lake and walking on the frozen beach, then checked into our hotel and took a nap. After we were refreshed we headed to Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge and took a trail along the Niobrara river to Fort Falls, and also enjoyed the entertainment provided by a prairie dog town taunting a badger along a prairie backroad. We also got to see Smith Falls, the highest waterfall in Nebraska. Sunday met us with a Sandhills blizzard, and it was slow going and nerve-racking as we tried to get south of the storm. Once we did, it was clear sailing on the way home.

Overlooking the Missouri River at Ponca State Park
March: Myself and a friend, Torrey, spent a marathon Sunday driving around the northeast Nebraska on a self-guided tour of the historical sites in that part of the the state. We were gone for 15 hours, visited several state parks including Niobrara State Park and Ponca State Park, and many more historical sites and markers. We were treated to several Bald Eagle sightings, and enjoyed a hike along the Niobrara River bluffs. It was a beautiful, clear winter day, and we made the most of it.

Marley sitting pretty at Spring Hollow, Indian Cave State Park
April: First camping trip of the year! Megan and I took Marley with us to Indian Cave State Park, NE. We were some of the few out camping that weekend, mostly because there was a severe storm in the forecast. It held out on us, though, until we finished our hike the next morning. We were lightly rained on the last ten minutes or so, but once we reached my car the sky opened up with a vengeance. Can't tell you how happy we were to have finished our hike just in time! Not so happy about the dozen or so ticks we picked up along the way, but whatever. Worth it.

Marley and Panda playing with a "stick" in a creek at Castlewood State Park
May: Marley and I took our first road trip out of state was to go visit a friend, Cat (and her dog Panda), near St. Louis, MO. Over Memorial Day weekend we hiked in Castlewood State Park, went zip-lining and had a cave tour at Meramec Caverns, visited Cahokia Mounds State Historical Site in Illinois, went to the St. Louis Zoo, and admired a sculpture garden. BUSY weekend! It was fabulous.

Moraine Park in Rocky Mountain National Park
June: My solo trip to Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. I've written about one of the hikes I did in a previous post, but I have a couple of more stories to tell still! It was a four day weekend accomplished at my own pace, with plenty of time to think, get to know myself and my comfort levels, and do whatever I damn well pleased without consulting anybody else. Note to self: I should do something like that more often.

July: Could have been a major disappointment, but luckily I try to look on the bright side of things and make the best out of any situation. After a white water rafting trip had to be cancelled due to my health, I was instead able to go with my boyfriend, Jared, while he went home over that weekend, and I was introduced to his parents. It was a fun weekend, filled with getting to know each other and plenty of picking on Jared. Adventure, indeed!
I also made another trip to see Cat, and we were supposed to go skydiving, but had to cancel due to severe weather. I for one do not want to jump out of a plane and be struck by lightning! Instead we went shopping, watched movies, and also went back to Castlewood State Park. It was a short and sweet weekend, even if it wasn't what I went for. (I was bad, I didn't take ANY pictures of my travels in July-I just didn't have it in me).

The view from Pike's Peak
August: This trip was kind of just thrown together and done on a whim. I ran away with Torrey to Pike's Peak, CO! Her dad ran the marathon up and down Pike's Peak, and Torrey and I went along to cheer him on. It was just for a weekend, but we managed to get in some sight-seeing, shopping, checked out the Peak, Garden of the Gods, and also went to Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument. Got in a couple of easy hikes and plenty of driving through the mountains! Next time I go back I am so doing the Manitou Incline. Think wooden stairs, straight up the side of a mountain, 2000 feet of elevation gain in less than a mile. Count me in.

Grand View Point, Canyonlands National Park
September: My longest and one of my top trips of the year, Cat and I spent a week hiking roughly 60 miles in the deserts and canyon country around Moab, UT. It was wonderful, it was magical, it was both strenuous and relaxing, it was amazing, and I'm already thinking about when and how I can go back. The red rocks of the desert capture my heart in a way that no where else has ever been able to do, except maybe the snow-capped peaks of the Rockies. I have many stories about my vacation there, some of which I have already written posts about here, here, here, and here. Trust me, there are plenty more to come.

Marley and Callie on the trail at Ponca State Park
My second trip of the month was a day trip to Ponca State Park, NE. I took Marley and Jared's dog, Callie, with me to go hiking in the wooded bluffs along the Missouri River. It was a short trip, but it was good for both the dogs and myself! I was missing the desert, and needed to get outside again. Mission accomplished.

Nothing like those Sandhills skies
October: Two trips this month as well. My daddy and I took a weekend to visit the Sandhills in north central Nebraska on a quest to photograph the state historical markers along the way. We made it as far north as Valentine, got a motel room, then were up at dawn to continue our quest. We got something like 56 or so markers, plus plenty of sightseeing. The Sandhills are always fun to drive through, and the prairies and open blue skies make one think of pioneer days, and of the ranching that is the current lifeblood of the area. Dad and I visited Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge and we retraced my steps in February. I'm glad we finally had some father-daughter time. We've never taken a trip together like that, and I'm thankful to my daddy for instilling the love of travel, adventure, exploration and driving into me.

That's right. That's me! And the parachute is pink, even!
My second trip of October I've already written about in my first post: Skydiving!! Once again I visited Cat, and we made the trip to Paxton, IL to test our luck and jump out of a plane. It was an incredible experience, and I seriously want to become a licensed jumper. There is nothing in the world like the feeling of being in free fall.

Callie snuggled in my mummy sleeping bag. Why? Because she fit. Kinda.
November: Last camping trip of the year, and it was kind of a disaster. My sister, Alisha, and I took Marley and Callie to Indian Cave State Park. We had the whole campground to ourselves, we got in late, and from the get-go I made so many mistakes it was like I had never camped before. I always go through my travel list before any trip, yet I neglected to do so on this final camping expedition. As a result, we forgot stupid things that shouldn't have been an issue. I also *accidentally* ran over my sister's air mattress.. I still owe her a new one. Ahhh.. good memories. We checked out the park's namesake, but left fairly early once we decided we had already pushed the limits of our luck. We visited some family in the area, and headed home less than 24 hours after we set out.

BIG kitty at the tiger refuge!
December: My last trip of the year was also one of my favorites. I went to visit Jared in Tyler, TX, where he moved to in November for a job working with big cats. I had a three day weekend, so Marley and I loaded up and headed south to where it was warm, humid, and actually awesome. I have a bit of a prejudice against Texas, but pushed it aside and enjoyed my stay. I got a tour of Jared's work, and we also visited the Tyler zoo. Callie and Marley were so happy to see each other! It was also fantastic to see Jared after a month apart. I can't wait to visit again, especially now that it is 30 degrees and threatening snow as I type this.

Snow in June at Rocky Mountain National Park. For reference, I'm 5'5".
Now, my New Year's Resolution by the numbers:
13,241 miles driving my car, with a couple of thousand more miles in someone else's car. So, somewhere around 15,000 miles spent in a car just on my road trips.
Roughly 35 days spent traveling. I kept better records in the last half of the year, but I don't know my exact timing because I didn't keep perfect track for the first few months. But I can safely say I spent over one total month traveling throughout the year.
I had 10 companions with me on my trips, and they either actually rode in the car with me, or I was going to visit them. Also, 5 furry companions!
I hiked around 105 miles. I wish this number was multiplied by about 5, but sometimes life just doesn't let you do what you want. 
I spent 12 nights in a tent, and 16 nights in either a hotel or someone's home. Shout out to everybody who let me stay with them, and also to the people who let me borrow their tent when mine just wouldn't cut it. 
I visited 9 states, 6 national parks/monuments, and countless state parks. The parks system is one of the best programs out there, conserving irreplaceable natural beauty, historically important sites, and preserving our past culture for our future ones. Anybody who says otherwise must live under a rock. 
And finally, I spent well over $3000 on my trips. Again, I didn't keep perfect records at the beginning, but I can safely say I spent a minimum of $3000. Probably closer to $4000. Worth. Every. Single. Penny.

Touching stingrays at the St. Louis Zoo
I would like to point out here that I am not privileged or special. The only trip my parents paid for was the one I took with Daddy, and that was because he wouldn't let me pay. I work a full time job with forty hours of paid vacation and forty hours of sick leave. I work a part time job that takes up one or two Sundays a month. I pick up pet/house-sitting jobs whenever possible. I work my ass off to be able to afford my travels. I have had a shitty year in terms of loss, having lost both my great grandmother AND my last remaining grandparent in general, an amazing woman I am lucky enough to call Grandma. I have been diagnosed with a major illness that is likely to be with me for the rest of my life, autoimmune hepatitis, which gives me fevers, fatigue that makes me want to sleep endlessly, and attacks my joints to the point where I have trouble getting up off of the floor and has turned my grip to shit. On bad days I'm lucky if I can move my wrists, and when this first started I could hardly walk. This illness is the reason I didn't hike nearly as much as I wanted to this year, and also why I had to cancel my white water rafting trip-I probably would have fallen out of the boat and drowned because I  wouldn't have been able to hold on. I have pushed my limits, probably more than I should have, but I pushed anyway and found that I surpassed even my own expectations. But I knew when to stop, when I couldn't possibly do any more or else risk serious injury.
Sunset is the best time to visit Delicate Arch in Arches National Park.
I don't write this asking for pity. I'm actually saying there are no excuses when it comes to doing what you want to do. Traveling has become my passion, and I made it a priority. If one thing wouldn't work, I found something that would. I intentionally scheduled trips around weekends and holidays, knowing it would give me extra days without having to take off of work. I made every single hour of paid vacation count, even though I lost all of my sick leave and a few hours of vacation to my illness when I was out of work for a week due to doctor's orders. That was in July. I still had half a year of traveling to go! If you want to travel, you'll make the time. I made it work even with so many factors against me. I am already planning another couple of trips for 2015, and I can't wait to be on the road again.


What I'm listening to: Drive It Like You Stole It by The Glitch Mob

Friday, December 19, 2014

Getting Lost in Rocky Mountain National Park (Where the f*** is the trail??)

Grief. Not a good state to be in when attempting to summit a mountain. I was in Rocky Mountain National Park and had the intention to summit Flattop Mountain, and possibly Hallett Peak, on my first full day in the park. I had arrived in Estes Park, CO the previous day for what was supposed to be a sibling vacation, but I due to our grandma being very ill and close to passing, my siblings opted to remain home. I went anyway, partly because Grandma told me in no uncertain terms that I was to continue traveling, no matter what. The other reason was because I needed to go. Traveling is my way of relaxing, of stepping back and viewing life in a perspective I can't quite get while at home. I had started my morning by crawling out of my tent in the pre-dawn darkness, grabbed an energy bar, made sure my gear was ready for a long hike, and then hit the road to the park. I didn't check my phone until I was standing at the trail head, but I wouldn't have had service on the drive up anyway. As it was, I was surprised to see I had service when I got it out to take a picture, and even more surprised to see a missed call. The dread set in when I saw it was my dad. There was only one reason he would call me at 6am (Mountain Time), and when I finally got him on the phone, he relayed the news of Grandma's passing. Not unexpected, but still a terrible loss. So I set out on the trail with reflections of Grandma, life, loss, and general grieving on my mind. I did think, rather derisively, that it would just make everyone's day that much better if I were to get lost out there. Note to self: NEVER think those type of thoughts again.

That's a trail, right?
At first, the trail was like any other mountain trail: dirt, trees, the smell of pines and a slight chill in the air even though it was mid-June. Then I started seeing snow. Not much at first, but more and more until eventually I was forced to cross patches as it lay across my trail. Then, gently, without me realizing it, I didn't get off of the snow. It stretched out before me, obscuring the dirt, the rocks, the dips and peaks in the trail. I wasn't bothered by this change of substrate at first. I don't mind the cold, and I had good hiking shoes and was prepared for any weather I might encounter. I started to be bothered by the snow around the same time that I got that uneasy feeling no hiker wants to feel, the feeling that maybe this isn't the right trail. But I hadn't seen a marker pointing me in any other directions, and there had clearly been people on this trail since the last snowfall, so I kept going and ignored that uneasiness (note: HUGE MISTAKE).

Um, what trail? Notice the horizon is horizontal. It really was that steep.
Soon, however, I was forced to accept that I really had missed the turn, somewhere, somehow. I knew the trail was supposed to follow a ledge, and I was heading in the opposite direction from where that ledge should be. That, and the "trail" I had been following disappeared. Literally. One moment I was walking in someone else's footprints, the next, I was alone. Completely. I knew the general direction of the parking lot/my car, I knew the general direction of town, and I knew the general direction of the trail. I didn't know much else. I was sinking up to mid-thigh in snow that I knew was deeper than I am tall, I was half crawling through drifts taller than some of the krummholz trees, and I knew I was in trouble. I couldn't have found the "trail" I had been following even if I wanted to, but going back down into the timber was not something I wanted to do. I needed to see, to be able to get my bearings and maybe sight a landmark or two that I could navigate from. My daddy taught me well: I always carry a compass with me whenever I go on a hike. So I went up.

Relaxing while lost. Gotta enjoy the view!
I scrambled up the side of the mountain and actually got above most of the snow that hadn't melted yet, with only the occasional snow field to circumvent. I knew, both from being taught and from instinct, that I needed to sit down and evaluate my situation. A big, flat rock that had absorbed some of the sun's heat was the perfect place to take my first rest of the day, and I pulled out my water, food, and compass. And my camera. Even though I was lost, how could I resist taking pictures of the breath-taking view I was being treated to? After resting and clearing my head I knew which direction the trail was, and I had the energy to attempt a summit. So I headed toward the trail, and after being admittedly lost for over an hour, I FOUND THE TRAIL! Out of relief I sat down on one of the rocks marking the path, and within five minutes was passed by a group of other hikers. Read that again: HUMAN BEINGS. I wasn't going to be alone! I got up and followed behind their group, but quickly fell behind. I hadn't realized how much energy I had expended trying to find the damn trail, and I was tired. I kept going at my own pace, sitting to rest often in air that had less oxygen than I was used to. I recognized the symptoms of altitude sickness; the fatigue, the headache, the upset stomach, and just not feeling well. I had stopped and curled up next to a warm rock, seriously considering taking a nap, when I heard another couple of hikers approaching from below. They stopped when they saw me, and in the usual hiker fashion asked if I was ok and if I needed water or food. After exchanging the initial pleasantries, they asked me how I had gotten to where we were, because they hadn't seen any footprints along the way that they came up. I told them about getting lost and about the other group of hikers who passed me, and they told me they had gotten lost themselves and had only just found the trail again. There were six people, including myself, who had started out on the mountain sometime between 6 and 7 am, and every single one of us had gotten lost.

I very nearly kissed the ground once I was back on the marked trail
Boy, that sure made me feel better! After our discussion the hiking couple agreed that I shouldn't be hiking alone, and they and I continued up the mountain together. I would not have made it to the summit without them. I was exhausted and had been on the verge of turning around but they kept me going at a nice, easy pace with well timed encouragement. And before I knew it, they had stopped. A few feet in front of us was the official windblown, freezing cold top of the mountain, and they wanted me to summit first. After 4.4 miles, 3000ft elevation gain, getting lost, and a summit of 12,350ft above sea level, I got to the top of the mountain! We then quickly found a sheltered place behind a boulder and rested, recharged, warmed up, then leaned into the wind (we couldn't stand up straight, the wind was so strong) to get back down the mountain. I briefly considered going an extra half-mile round trip to summit Hallett Peak, which was just across a saddle and within sight of our sheltered boulder, but with how much energy I had exerted already, it just wasn't going to happen.

Sheltering and refueling before the descent
On our way down the other group of hikers caught back up with us; they had continued on to Hallett Peak and were moving quickly to get out of the wind and back into the shelter of the timberline. They stuck with us for the rest of the hike down, and between all of us we managed to find the correct trail to get us off of the mountain. We chatted all the way down, and got to know each other and our reasons for being on our hike. I even got some new travel ideas! I started my hike with every intention of doing it solo, but I hadn't accounted for the camaraderie that forms when a group of strangers tackle a challenge together. And I had forgotten how friendly people are while on a trail! And I don't mean one of those short, easy trails that have hungry toddlers, moody teens, and the exhausted parents attached to both. Those people mind their own business. But if you take the time and the energy, and are prepared enough to get off of the beaten path, you can be rewarded with incredible views and can also be reminded that there is a reason to have faith in humanity.

Long's Peak as viewed from the trail to Flattop Mountain
What I'm listening to: I Don't Think Now Is The Best Time by Hans Zimmer

Friday, December 12, 2014

The Most Spectacular Hike EVER, in Pictures

Sometime, after sitting and staring at my computer screen for a while, I will find the words to tell you about the most amazing hike I have ever had the privileged to accomplish. This hike was an 11 mile loup to the Joints through Chesler Park in the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park, Utah. For now, the pictures I took on that amazing trail will have to give you a taste of what I saw and did. Enjoy!