Trail Ridge Road, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
If you have a mind to explore the most easily accessible alpine tundra in the continental United States, take a ride on this road! The only paved road that bisects Rocky Mountain National Park is your only way to access both sides of the park without spending hours and miles going around outside of the park, but be aware that this road is only open seasonally. During the winter months the road closes due to white-out conditions and snow drifts so deep they bury buildings. During the summer though, the tundra is an amazing place to see elk, big horn sheep, mountain goats, marmots, and many other species, right from the side of this road! The road starts in the forest, rises to well above treeline, then descends back into the forest. Did I mention it crosses the Continental Divide too?
Schafer's Trail, Island in the Sky, Canyonlands National Park, UT
No list would be complete without a desert road. This road, located in my favorite national park, is not for those who have even a slight fear of heights. You start off on top of a plateau (which you have to access by way of another road mentioned on this list) and all but immediately dive over the edge of a cliff by way of a series of tight, stacked switchbacks. A thousand feet later, you reach the lower part of the road that meanders across the seemingly-flat-but-not-really middle layer of the park, bringing you right against the edge of another set of thousand foot cliffs above the Colorado River. From there you continue your journey across the desert and eventually end up back in Moab. Note: DO NOT drive this road during a thunderstorm or if there was recent rain!
Utah's Highway 12, UT
Another road that is not for anyone afraid of heights, this road takes you through an amazing series of ecosystems in central southern Utah. Starting from the town of Torrey near Capitol Reef National Park, you climb up and over the Boulder Mountains (I don't recommend it during a snowstorm, though I got through ok) before descending back into the Staircase-Escalante region of the desert. The road follows razor edge ridges above cliffs with no guardrails, and a mistake here means plummeting into canyons hundreds of feet below. From the ridges above you descend into the canyons below, before rising again as you approach Bryce Canyon National Park. Here you get back into the higher-elevation Ponderosa Pines and other altitude-loving flora, though still get to see the red rocks contrasted with the dark green of trees. The road is one of the top scenic byways in the country for a reason.
Notom-Bullfrog Road, Capitol Reef National Park, UT
I don't remember it, but apparently I rode this road with my family years ago, on one of our first trips to Capitol Reef. I stumbled across the road again this past January and after checking with the park rangers that my toyota could handle it, off I went. The road starts off paves, before abruptly switching to gravel, then eventually fading into the colorful, sandy dirt of the surrounding desert. The road itself was awesome: ups and downs, between mounds and desert washes, and I could see the tire tracks of those who had come through when the road had been wet. It was definitely not something I would want to be on if it were wet or too icy without 4-wheel drive, and a no-go if it were raining anywhere nearby. If you want to see the desert up close and personal, this road is for you.
My Spot, Mount Shavano/San Isabelle National Forest to Billings Mine, CO
It has been years, at least eight, since I was last on this road, but it still lands a place on my list because of where it goes and how it gets there. I've written about My Spot before, and it is awesome for reasons other than a perfect campsite by a creek. The road that goes past My Spot starts paved, before turning into a forest service road that meanders through the mountain forests, past alpine meadows and rushing water, until finally reaching a national forest campground, a lake, and an old mine right near the treeline and top of the mountain. It is not a road that can be accessed by my little toyota, but as soon as I get my jeep you can bet on where I'll be headed!
Utah's Highway 313, UT
This short scenic byway starts near Moab, UT and has one purpose: to get people up to the Island in the Sky. The only paved road that leads to the most popular district of Canyonlands National Park is a destination in itself. Starting near river level you head into a short canyon and begin to climb up. After roughly two thousand feet and a couple of scenic overlooks, campgrounds, and the entrance to Dead Horse Point State Park, you reach the boundaries of Canyonlands. But that isn't the end of the road. You cross a grassy steppe, where you're likely to see antelope, mule deer or a coyote, and keep driving until you hit the end of the road, right at the edge of one set of thousand foot cliffs overlooking the Colorado River miles away and two thousand feet below. It's not a bad drive (as it's paved) and has guard rails, so those with a mild fear of heights should be able to handle it fine.
Utah's Highway 128, UT
A road the runs along the mighty Colorado River? Count me in! This scenic byway connects the town of Moab, UT to Interstate 70 by way of a canyon cut out by the river. From Moab you dive straight into the canyon and follow the curves of the river for miles. Eventually the river drops away as you climb out of the canyon and onto the windswept desert and a flat road until you hit Cisco, UT and the interstate junction. My favorite way to travel is from the interstate down into Moab, as you get to transition slowly from the flat desert to one of the most scenic places in the country. This highway gives access to many other places besides Moab, including Castle Valley, the La Salle Mountains, river rafting opportunites, wineries, and many others.
La Salle Mountain Loop, Moab, UT
You wouldn't think of finding lush alpine forests within a few miles of some of the driest deserts in the country, but a drive along this road will show you how it is. It doesn't take long on this road, that rises out of Castle Valley near Moab, before you start to gain elevation and see the trees start popping up. Within a few miles you come across stands of aspens and ponderosa pines and hear the rush of a stream nearby. The road, which starts paves and gradually changes to gravel at the higher elevations, is pretty much a one lane path, but one with plenty of pull outs to make room for other vehicles going the opposite direction. There are plenty of forest service roads that branch off of the main road, and once I get my jeep I can't wait to make tracks all over these mountains. As you descend off the mountains and the land becomes arid again the road widens and is once again paved before spitting you back out into the desert on the other side of Moab. If you need a respite from the heat of the valley, hit this road for a nice little refreser!
Forest Service Road 177, Ouichita National Forest, AR
When I headed into Arkansas to check out Hot Springs National Park and the surrounding area, I wasn't expecting mountains. I mean sure, "mountains" was plastered across all the maps I consulted, but to me mountains are the towering, snowcapped behemoths out west. There is no denying, however, that the Ouichita Mountains are mountains, and nowhere is that more apparent than on this road. I first took this road on a whim, after seeing a brown sign pointing travellers down it, and have since gone back a couple more times just to get lost on it again. The road is easily accessible and well maintained, covered in gravel and crushed rock, though it can get slippery when it is wet, like during a thunderstorm (oops!). There aren't wide open views of glaciers and alpine lakes, but the enclosed and lush forests have their own charm and hide little jewels like waterfalls, crystals and swimming holes. If you take this road, make sure to bring paper maps of the area and make sure you have a full tank of gas, because cell phones don't work out here and you can easily get lost along the branching, sometimes unmarked roads that seem to circle among themselves. It's not a huge area so you'll eventally hit a paved road and head back to town, but it is always better to be prepared.
Balsam Mountain Road, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, NC
The last road on my list is another one that I stumbled upon while looking to escape the Labor Day crowds at the most popular national park in the country. On this road, I found what I was looking for. I saw maybe two other cars the entire time, and because it is a one way the only reason I saw them in the first place is because I was parked along the side, looking at the creek, the forest, the mushrooms or whatever else, and they just happened to pass me. The forest gives this road a muted feel, and in the near-constant wet of the Smokies mists envelope you and water drips from everything. Don't expect a dry road, though it was hard packed and my toyota handled it fine. There are no dizzying drop-offs and only a few extensive views, but there is something about the smell and feel of the forest that kept me enthralled for hours.
It is a good idea to begin all of these roads with a full tank of gas and to have paper maps with you at all times, because cell service is spotty at best and completely non-existant at worst. Exercise due caution on all of these roads during foul weather, but especially on desert roads during thunderstorms and mountain roads during blizzards. Four wheel drive is recommended, but not required, for all but one of the roads listed above. If you decide to drive any of these roads, can I go with you?
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