A Snapshot and The Scoop: A Spot of Light, An East Coast Epic Story

Imagine going into a cave with a small, flickering source of light that may or may not burn out and leave you to scramble in the dark, hoping to find the way out . . . or else. Prehistoric Indians did just that as they explored Mammoth Cave, located in central Kentucky in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. They used the cave for shelter and as a source for minerals, gathering reeds from the nearby river, bundling them together, and hoping to have light for an hour or so. Of course, they brought multiple torches with them, but still! I love visiting caves, but I can't imagine going through one without a guaranteed source of light. Props to them!

Natural Bridge Caverns Trail Run: Race #2

Jaunty. Months ago, right after I had recommitted to running a half-marathon trail race, a conversation with my long-distance running buddy led to the discovery of a race that began in a cave right here in Texas. For the adventurous spirit inside me it was a siren call too enchanting to resist, and I had signed up for it almost before I knew it. Of course, the fact that it was one week after my 54k (which happened to be my first race ever) was something that slipped by me in my enthusiasm. Would I still have signed up for both anyway? Yeah, probably. Would I have at least stopped to consider if that was a good idea? Meh, maybe. The thing is, I had been toying with the idea of running one race per month in 2020, and the 54k was in January, and the half-marathon cave run was in February, and we all know those are two different months. Realizing they were a week apart didn't dampen my excitement; if anything, attempting two races basically back to back was a challenge I was determined to overcome.

It was with no small amount of anticipation that Julia and I found ourselves in the wild country north of San Antonio at the beginning of February as we followed our fellow runners, descending single-file into a hole in the earth. We trailed along, strung out on the path as we turned our heads this way and that, trying to take in as many cave formations as possible. They began runners one at a time due to the cramped quarters, and we had a few minutes stopped in a small tunnel to chat and take in the fact that we were about to run a race through a cave. Julia and I made sure to take a picture together as we waited for our turn to begin, our excitement at this novel experience palpable.

Then it was our turn! Julia went first, for the sole purpose of me getting a picture of her beginning the race. I hadn't carried my phone for my last race, and I ended up regretting it because I would have loved more pictures. I learned this time around, and although it wasn't ideal to hold my phone in my hand the whole time I absolutely had easy access to take any picture I wanted! And yeah, I took a ton (it's me, come on). Most of my pictures I took while on the move, but there were several places where the formations or the scenery prompted me to stop in my tracks as I drank in everything around me. I absolutely squeaked with overwhelming excitement and joy after I was allowed to begin, running to catch up with Julia so we could experience this together. We ran past stalactites and stalagmites, past smooth flow-stone and fragile straws, along deep pits, and finally up steep switchbacks as we neared ground-level.

The transition from cave to sunrise air was shocking enough to prompt exclamations out of both of us; the caves in south Texas generally stay a consistent 70 degrees Fahrenheit, but a late winter Texan morning hovers right around 40. The difference was enough to see the condensation forming in the air in front of us through the doors at the surface, and as we passed through it we felt the drop in our bones. It didn't take long to forget about it, though, as we turned a corner and ran into the sunrise.

From the cave, the course looped through a great example of south-central Texas hill country, known for its rolling hills, little canyons, rocky trails, and (in the springtime) its wildflowers. We were a few weeks too early for flowers, unfortunately, but the crooked oak trees and little pastures more than made up for it. We ran up and down hills, along a dry creek bed, through tunnels of trees just waiting to burst into bloom, and across pastures that were already a green spring carpet beneath our feet. We had one major descent (not counting the cave) and I was able to let go and allow gravity to take the wheel. I've found I absolutely adore downhill running; I somehow know exactly how to place my feet to keep my legs under me, how to angle my body so I don't face-plant and skid in the dirt, and when I give it my all I feel like I'm flying. Of course, we went down so eventually had to go up, and I am significantly less adept at that. I power walk to the best of my ability, but holy cow do I suffer for it.

Even with a bit of walking, stopping to take pictures, and a near-constant flow of conversation, Julia and I managed to keep a steady pace throughout the 13.1 miles. As soon as we hit the pavement that signaled we were close to the finish line Julia asked how far I thought we had left to go, and I knew that was her way of asking if we could have it all out in the last few steps of the race. We saved it until we could see the bright red finish line arch at the bottom of a hill, next to the cave entrance where we had begun our race. Once we did, we sprinted, a giant grin on my face as I reflected that this was my first official half-marathon, that I had finished, that I had done it a week after an ultra-marathon, and that I felt like a million bucks even at the end of the run. Julia crossed the finish line less than four seconds before I did, and after catching our breath we set out to grab our finisher medals and snag some food as we came down from the exhilaration of finishing.

I absolutely did not take this race seriously. I was still somewhat recovering from my ultra-marathon (stupid knee) and I had plenty of time to complete the run, the course began in a cave then looped around a bit of privately-owned Texas hill country which meant there was plenty of scenery to gawk at, and I was running with one of my best friends whom I was determined to chat with the whole time. Despite my irreverence I somehow pulled off my best pace yet for that distance (asphalt and trail running combined!), finishing the half-marathon in under two and a half hours. Far from punishing my body with a bad race, running two races a week apart seemed to work out perfectly well for me, and I'd be lying if I said I'm not curious (or ambitious, or perhaps crazy) enough to try it again. I've got a bit of a break before my next race - I'm signed up for two more at the time of publishing - but I have every intention of hitting the trails between now and then just for fun, as well as a couple of non-running adventures planned. I have to say, it is certainly good to be back.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Indian Tunnel

Named for stone rings left behind by ancestral Shoshone tribes, Indian Tunnel is one of the few lava tubes visitors are allowed to explore without a guide. Formed by rivers of lava, the hardened shell of the tube was left empty as the lava moved away, leaving small caves beneath the baking black surface of the Arco Desert at Craters of the Moon National Monument in central Idaho. Thirty feet high, fifty feet wide, and around 800 feet long, my sister and I spent some time exploring this lava tube during our visit to the monument, where we listened to rock doves coo from recessed alcoves in the cave's ceiling. You wouldn't think there would be much water in the desert, and you'd be right if you were at surface level. Get below ground, however, and you find a cool respite from the desert heat and enough water to allow passersby to survive. Craters of the Moon stayed with us from the first time we visited more than ten years ago with our family, and my sister and I were eager to revist on last summer's adventure. Though we didn't get too much spelunking in during our time, we didn't leave disappointed. I can't wait till we can go back!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: The Dragon's Mouth

Named over a hundred years ago by a park visitor, this hot spring at Yellowstone National Park certainly captures the imagination. Impossible to see with a single picture, the water in this spring roils and crashes with violent waves much like a dragon's tongue, while gasses bubbling to the surface release a dull, constant roar, contributing to the noise of the waves already bouncing off the cave's walls. Add a little steam into the mix, and it's not hard to imagine a dragon snoozing in the caverns beyond the mouth of the spring. While not the prettiest hot spring by any means, this was one of my favorites purely for the creative name and images provoked.

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Gila Cliff Dwellings

I will never, ever get tired of visiting cliff dwellings. Ancient Native American dwellings like those in Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument located in southwestern New Mexico dot the desert southwest, and though they share many similarities, each holds stories and a history unique to themselves. Most are built within sandstone alcoves, usually with a tiny little seep spring at the back that provides life-giving water, or else on a shelf above seasonal creeks that flood less often than they're dry. Occasionally though a series of alcoves and shelves are jammed full of stone and mud dwellings above a perennial stream, and it is there that you know the ancestors truly flourished. Time has erased their little farming plots, where they grew corn, squash, and beans, leaving only the grind stones and broken pottery behind to mark the passing of the years. The drier the area, the better preserved the ruins, and sometimes even the original timber support poles remain in place, though the roofs they supported are long gone. If you ever get the chance to check out cliff dwellings, don't pass up the opportunity!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: The Blowhole

This unassuming, gated-off hole in the ground is actually a natural entrance to a giant underground chamber buried beneath the desert at Wupatki National Monument. The blowhole is so named because it "breathes", pushing air out or sucking air in depending on the temperature and pressure outside. When we were there the blowhole was blowing air out of it, though we at first couldn't tell which way the air was blowing. There are several blowhole sites around Wupatki, and like I said above these are entrances to underground chambers; these chambers are called earthcracks and appear as a result of earthquake activity in the surrounding limestone bedrock, which enlarge over time. Each chamber and blowhole is connected by one or more passages, though as of yet nobody has explored the size, depth, or complexity of the earthcracks. Wouldn't it be cool to do a little spelunking in the area?

Leave me a comment below and tell me if you've ever heard of earthcracks or blowholes. They aren't really caves, though they seem pretty similar if you ask me!

2016 Wrap-Up: Do What You Love

It's that time again, the time of year where I reflect on each of my travels, compile a list of stats such as how much I drove, how long I travelled, the number of miles I hiked, and so on. I've been a lot of places this year, and done a lot, but the definite highlight of my entire year is getting engaged to my best friend at The Wizarding World of Harry Potter! Read on below to see what else I've been up to.

At the beginning of January I spent a week in the high deserts of southern Utah and northern Arizona. Starting in Canyonlands National Park and winding my way through four of the big five national parks in southern Utah (Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon and Zion - I only missed Arches) plus several smaller parks in Arizona, I got my first real taste of winter camping in below freezing temperatures, blizzards, bad roads, and ice. Even with getting pretty sick during the first few days of the trip it was still an awesome taste of a new season in a familiar location, and something that I would love to do again. 

A short and sweet visit to some friends in Stillwater, Oklahoma at the beginning of February reminded me that the southern states get cold, but not cold enough to ice the lakes during winter months. We spent the weekend chatting, drinking wine, and exploring the area in and around Stillwater, a new town to add to my list of places visted!

I took off on Valentine's Day to explore my own little slice of East Texas, starting at Martin Creek Lake State Park, passing through a couple national forests and ending with Mission Tejas State Park. I made it clear to the Louisiana border and halfway south to Houston before completing my loop and heading home. 

The last weekend of February found me in and around Hill Country of central Texas. I visited several state parks, including Guadalupe River State Park, before meeting my little brother at the River Walk in San Antonio. Austin was stationed in San Antonio at the time and had the weekend off, so I made the drive to the area over a weekend and got to know the hills. I loved them so much I went back later!

At the beginning of March my sister came to visit me, and we took off to the gulf coast at Sea Rim State Park. I was kicking myself for not getting to the coast before! The ocean is amazing, and when we can camp right on the beach, falling asleep to the sound of waves and wind, it is heaven. Plus the sunrises are long and lingering, and perfect. Also, beach weather in March is something I can get on board with! Lisha and I made a stop at NASA too, taking one of their tours of the facility and making the nice weather in Houston last a little while longer before heading home. 

The weekend after St. Patrick's Day I headed north and east to Hot Springs National Park, the most urbanized national park I've ever visited. While I wasn't prepared for the buildings and crowds, even on the "nature" trails, I managed to find some solitude on the more remote paths. I also visited Ouichita National Forest on a whim, discovering several little recreation sites that I made a mental note to visit again during the summer.

I finally went backpacking in April! I received my backpack for Christmas last year but didn't have a chance to use it until April, when I ran away to Palo Duro Canyon State Park in west Texas. I took my favorite little adventure dog with me, and we spend two days exploring the second biggest canyon in the states, hiking 16+ miles and weathering a couple of thunderstorms while out in the backcountry. At least my first night was memorable!

At the end of April my dad and sister came down to Texas for a long weekend, and they, Jared and myself took off to San Antonio for our time together. We had originally meant to go to Houston, the coast and NASA, but Houston was under water at the time and we had to go with Plan B. Cue long days and nights full of drinking on the River Walk! We stopped at Longhorn Cavern State Park on the way, taking a tour of the cave I had visited on my February Hill Country adventure. It was the third year in a row that I had taken a trip with my dad, and I can't wait for next year's adventure!

Jared and I flew in to Orlando in May, visited The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, and got engaged!!! He really did everything right, planned it all out, and just in general made our short stay in Florida amazing. Best trip of the year right here!

A short visit to Nebraska over Memorial Day weekend included lots of family time, a visit to a winery and a chocolate factory, and meals with friends. Long weekends seemed to be the main form of my travels this year, and there is nothing wrong with that. Short visits but plenty of them make the months in between seem not so long. 

The first weekend of June found me and Callie back in west Texas at Caprock Canyons State Park where we backpacked out onto a loop trail, hiked up and down bluffs and canyons, found a fern oasis and a bison herd, and located the sloppiest puddle of red mud for Callie to roll in. I turned my white dog orange.  

I went back to Sea Rim State Park over a weekend in June, spending two nights and two spectacular sunrises on the beach, with a full day of sunbathing and shell-searching in between. I finally saw a pack of feral hogs at a nearby national wildlife refuge (a Texan animal I hadn't seen yet) and tried to canoe out into the salt marshes with limited success. But really, there is nothing like those cotton candy sunrises. 

Also in June myself and two of my best friends managed to find a weekend that we all had off and met in Stillwater, OK again, this time to take a much-needed girls' weekend. We talked, drank wine, made s'mores and kayaked for the first time (at least, my first time)! I discovered a boat that I actually liked, and can see myself owning a kayak just as soon as I get a vehicle that can transport it. 

My sister and I decided on a whim to go backpacking in Great Sand Dunes National Park, and went for it over the weekend of the 4th of July. She hadn't backpacked before and I'd never backpacked in the park, so it was a learning experience for both of us. Our first night we actually stayed in a local campground and endured hail, lightning, thunder and torrential rain, making me very thankful we weren't on the dunes at the time. The next night, however, the rain cleared off and we headed out. It was amazing. I also took Lisha to Zapata Falls, introducing her to the so-cold-it-burns waters of the creek and the little canyon the falls cut for themselves out of the cliff. 

The last week of July wasn't a happy one; I lost my little love, Meeka, and ran away with Callie and a friend for a day just to get away from my own head. I find peace when I'm on the road and in destinations that are beautiful, so we headed to central Arkansas and Ouichita National Forest to do some exploring on the forest service roads. We spent all day in the Ouichita Mountains, revisiting the recreation sites I had found during my March visit, and finding a few new ones along the way. I also found the peace I was looking for, so that definitely helped. 

Julia came to visit me the first weekend of August and we spent a few hours one day canoeing around Caddo Lake State Park and the surrounding waterways. Hot summer days, green forests, good friends, and my dog make everything better, and were just what I needed.

My next big adventure of the year was the week I spent in Colorado with Torrey. We went all over the place, but focused our time on hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park (we touched a glacier!), backpacking a couple nights in Great Sand Dunes National Park, and being in Manitou Springs for the Pike's Peak Ascent and Marathon, as we have the past two years. 

I took nearly six weeks off of travelling to try to get myself pulled back together, but finally got back on the road at the beginning of October. I took my dog to Petit Jean State Park in Arkansas where we spent two days hiking all over the small park, most notably to Cedar Falls, where Callie became the star of the day by diving into the plunge pool and entertaining the hoards of people lined up around the edge.

On one of the last days of October I took Callie out again, this time to Brazos Bend State Park and Galveston Island State Park along the gulf coast of Texas. We looked for and found alligators at Brazos Bend, and Callie saw the ocean for the first time at Galveston Island. It's safe to say she's a water dog!

I made a surprise trip back home to Nebraska mid-November, much to my mother's delight. It really was a three day visit where I mostly hung out with my family and took pictures of their cats. Ya know, as you do. 

Ten days before the anniversary of my personal-record-breaking hike I was at it again at Big Thicket National Preserve, hiking 20.42 miles in 7 hours, 8 minutes and breaking my personal best distance record yet again. This time, however, I had my little white dog to keep me motivated and entertained for the duration of the hike. This little terrier led me almost the whole way, and if she wasn't leading me she was right in step with me. She's the perfect hiking companion!

Weekend before last I met up with Julia again, this time at a cabin on the Blue River in southern Oklahoma. We talked, explored the river and woods, scouted out the nearby Tishamingo National Wildlife Refuge, and otherwise enjoyed the time we had together. 

My last trip of the year is the one I just got back from. I headed back up to Nebraska to see my family and friends for Christmas, and spent the week getting a taste of the winter I don't miss. I spent lots of time with family, had a little time to spend with friends, and started to wedding plan with my sister. I also took way too many pictures of my parent's cats. Yay for family!

I have obviously been busy this year, though I have to admit that my heart was into it more before I lost Meeka. Not only did I mourn for a long time, sucking a lot of my energy from me, but I also lost interest in planning any of my travels. I'm sure that has something to do with the lack of energy I've felt lately. I've also been sucking at writing, both on this blog and in my travel journals, but I've promised myself to get back into it during the new year. I have picked my travels back up in the past couple months, and I'm already planning several longer adventures for 2017, but I don't know about the smaller ones. I guess we'll see.

Below I've listed out my usual stats for the year. I have definitely increased my travels over last year, and I'm excited for what 2017 will hold!

Number of Adventures: 23
Time Spent Travelling: 1,504 hours, 46 minutes
Number of Nights Camping: 19
Number of Nights in Someone's House: 22
Number of Nights in a Hotel: 10
Number of Nights Driving: 2
Total Cost: $5.152.38
Number of States Visited: 10
Distance Driven: 23,387 miles
Distance Hiked: 148.39 miles
Number of National Parks/Monuments/Rec Areas/Wildlife Refuges:16
Number of State Parks: 11
Number of Human Companions: 44
Number of Furry Companions: 18

A huge shout out to every single person who accompanied me on my travels, and I hope you all know how much you mean to me. I wouldn't have traveled with you if I didn't enjoy your company!

Bring it, 2017!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Bear Cave

Though the name of this cave indicates otherwise, there are no bears in Petit Jean State Park. At least, there haven't been bears for a very long time. A series of sandstone monoliths that are cracked and weathered to form passages and dead ends open to the sky, Bear Cave isn't really a cave either, though the passages do tuck in near the base so that it seems that there is a roof of rock over your head. The only thing I can really compare them to is The Joints in Canyonlands National Park, UT, where giant sandstone blocks cracked and weathered to form narrow slot-like canyons with sandy bottoms. Callie and I wandered through every crack and crevice, poked around in every dark hole, and climbed up the rocks (the ones Callie could climb, which is surprising). Even with no bears and no true caves, Bear Cave was pretty awesome to explore!
\
Leave me a comment below and let me know if you've ever explored a place similar to this. Where is it?

A Snapshot and The Scoop: An Alcove in Arkansas

My short adventure at Petit Jean State Park in Arkansas included a brief hike down to Rock House Cave, an alcove reminiscent of the sandstone alcoves that makes Mesa Verde National Park so special. This small alcove in Arkansas didn't house any adobe structurues, but it had its fair share of petroglyphs painted on the ceiling. It was dim in the cave, and you had to be looking in order to see the faint orange paint, but once you knew they were there you could see the ancient paintings everywhere. With the aid of a flashlight I searched the rocks above my head, picking out several deer, a humanoid figure, and many wavy lines. It was super neat to be so close to the petroglyphs, and refreshing to not find any graffiti or trash in the area. People really can appreciate their past, and it was good to see proof of that.

Leave me a comment below and tell me about a place you've been to where people respect their past, instead of trying to trash it.

The Arch and The Grotto

Revived. We wandered down the wooded path, over leaf litter and soft dirt, our breath rising like smoke as we pushed forward on the early fall morning. Callie and I were the only ones on the trail and had started at dawn, rising early, taking down our tent, and hitting the trail before most other campers were stirring in their sleeping bags. I wanted to get going first thing and hopefully get a few miles under our feet before we had to return to reality for the upcoming week, so pushed us a little faster than I would normally have done that early in the morning. Callie didn't seem to mind. We were hiking Seven Hollows Trail in Petit Jean State Park, where we had hiked to Cedar Falls the previous day, and only had half the day to spend before we had to return home.

We came to a fork in the trail, and I hesitated. I thought I remembered the trail being a loop, but didn't have a map on me to confirm (bad, I know). One sign pointed to a natural bridge and the other to The Grotto, so I figured if anything else I'd backtrack, and headed to the bridge first. The trail almost immediately started heading down, until we were walking along the bottom of a forest canyon. Small caves dotted the sandstone cliffs surrounding us, and more than once Callie veered off along a small side trail to go explore; I didn't correct her, I wanted to go check them out myself! Soon we were walking along a small creek, first next to it then above, always returning while we followed the canyon along its length. About a mile and a half in we reached the natural bridge, chiseled into the dark grey sandstone no doubt by the creek that now flowed around it. We explored for a bit, climbing on the rocks and in Callie's case sniffing the countless other scents of dogs and people who had come before us. One of the perks of rising early, and hitting the trail early, is the distinct lack of people. We had the whole arch, the whole trail, to ourselves, but I'm willing to bet we would have had to share if we'd come an hour later. I was able to let Callie explore off-leash, unhindered by the courtesy of hiking with dogs around people who might not be dog friendly.

We took our time at the arch, but were soon on our way again. I could have turned back, as I was unsure of whether or not the arch was a spur or part of the loop, but I decided to keep going and see what happened. Not far beyond the arch we crossed the creek and climbed the soft sandstone up and out of the canyon. Almost before I realized it, we were on a bluff overlooking the forest canyon below, surrounded by funny little mounds of stone affectionately called "Turtle Rocks," weathered into patterns like the shell of the reptile. Not far from the rocks we descended into another canyon, and here I received the confirmation I was looking for: a sign on the trail pointed down a short spur to The Grotto. I was on a loop!

The Grotto is a large sandstone alcove, reminiscent of the alcoves in the red rock sandstone of the desert Southwest, A small stream cascades over the upper lip of it, probably full of life after a good rain but on this trip it was only a trickle. The stream feeds a small pool of water, which undercuts the sandstone further until it runs out to join the other streams and rivers in the park. Callie and I spent a while exploring, checking out the prints in the mud of other visitors, such as raccoons, dogs, and other people. She really, really wanted to go swimming, but I didn't fancy cleaning up a muddy dog, so kept her out of the water.

From The Grotto we ascended again before diving right back into the third and final canyon of the hike. This one we walked the length of, weaving between the trees and overhanging cliffs, poking around more caves and otherwise just enjoying the fall morning. One couple with their dog passed us going the opposite direction, and that was it for our people encounters. The woods were quiet, though we could occasionally hear a creek babbling under the leaves. We reached the trailhead again just as the day began to warm up, and I was happy to call it a day. It was a nice little escape, and I went back to civilization ready to give it another go.