Steady. Although we missed the leaf peak by two weeks, autumn in the Ozarks couldn't be passed up. Torrey and I were back in northern Arkansas, planning on finishing twenty-five miles of the Buffalo River Trail over four days in the middle of November. We arrived in the tiny town of Ponca at midday on Friday and spent a few hours getting ourselves oriented and settled before dropping a car off at each trailhead. We only had an hour and a half or so of light left, and spent about forty-five minutes hiking at a quick pace along Steel Creek until we made camp for the first night, settling in a hollow next to the creek just off trail.
I did mention it was autumn, right? It got cold that night, cold enough that I regretted not placing my pocket warmers somewhere I could find them when I inevitably woke up in the wee hours of the morning, freezing my toes off. I didn't really get back to sleep after that, shivering too much to relax in my bag, so I was up with the sun as I tried to bring feeling back into my fingers and toes. We ate a hot oatmeal breakfast as we waited for the forest to warm up around us, watching droplets of water fall like rain as the sun melted frost from the upper branches of the trees.
Soon enough we were on our way, gaining elevation as we rose above the creek to come out on a bluff high above the Buffalo River. Fading leaves carpeted the forest floor, crunching under our shoes as we waded through ankle deep piles blown around by the wind. Frozen trickles of water laced dry creek beds, echos of springtime rains and gushing falls, and we passed more than one overhang that surely boasted water pouring over its edge during summer storms. Not for the first time I wondered what the trail would be like to hike in a different season, perhaps late spring or early summer, when water was abundant and a green canopy obscured the sky. Maybe one year I'll find out, but for now I'll stick with the oranges and yellows and whitish blues that come with autumn leaves and open skies.
Even with our packs on the trail was relatively easy and we ate up miles. Several times I commented to Torrey that our hike this year seemed easier than the section we hiked last year. The views certainly were better, with the trail more closely parallelling the river and affording views of its greenish-blue waters more frequently. We planned to hike from Steel Creek all the way to the BRT's end point at Pruitt, though our short-term goal was Kyle's Landing where we planned on breaking for lunch.
At least, stopping at Kyle's Landing was the plan. We did great on the approach, making miles and time as we estimated we would. We knew we were getting close when we began losing elevation, leveling out at river level and hearing voices of day trippers. We even saw a few other hikers, presumably enjoying a short walk from the parking lot. Somehow or another, though, we missed our turn. Instead of taking the spur and heading to the parking lot and river, we kept going on the BRT, and it took us asking each other if that last tenth-mile felt like a lot further than it should have before we realized we'd missed our turn. It wasn't really a huge setback, though. Sure, I'd been looking forward to dumping some trash and using the pit toilets, but we had the forest to ourselves and we could empty trash at our next stop, where we planned on making camp that night. So, as the sun shone directly overhead Torrey and I found ourselves a couple of nice rocks and ate a cold lunch, resting up for the next leg of our hike.
No comments:
Post a Comment