A Snapshot and The Scoop: Delicate Arch

What's a trip to Arches National Park without stopping to see the arch, Delicate Arch itself? I mean, it's even featured on Utah's license plate! This particular visit to the arch was way less crowded than I expected it to be, though that may be in part due to thunderstorms in the area, and sunset was still more than an hour away. We were actually able to get photos of the arch without someone standing under it for once, with no need to get creative with camera angles! I still circled around the edge of the bowl that the arch perches on, and climbed down to the sandy bottom to get a few shots looking up at the monolith, but that was purely for pleasure. I don't think it's possible to have too many pictures! In fact, it was this arch that Jared asked me to bring him back as a gift after one trip. Like, the actual arch, not a decal or a figure of it. He wanted the arch. Becuase that's a normal thing to ask for. But hey, shout out to my wonderful, loving, goofy husband on his birthday! Happy Birthday Jared, I love you!!

A Snapshot and The Scoop: Cat the Bird Whisperer

This raven woke my friend Cat and I up on our very first morning in Moab, UT while we were on our week-long vacation at the desert. We had the rain fly off on our tent, so could see him sitting above our picnic shelter, talking his head off. So: Cat talked back to him. And he responded.  This exchange went back and forth for a time, before the raven got bored and flew off. Ravens became sort of the animal embodiment of our trip, and we commented every time we saw one. This one raven is why I have a small toy raven living above my rear view mirror in my car, so that every time I look at him,  I remember it's the small things that make the trip worth it.

Leave me a comment below and tell me if you associate certain animals with a place or a time.

How Do I Put This Into Words? The Place My Heart Calls "Home"

Awed. There is nothing else anybody can possibly feel when they are standing at the brink of a thousand foot cliff with absolutely nothing between you and a very long fall. Canyonlands National Park in southeastern Utah is my heart's home, and I have trouble putting my thoughts and feelings and yearning into words; I don't know if I can even describe what this place means to me. I'm usually pretty damn good at telling stories about my travels, but I have deliberately put this blog post off because I don't know how to describe my desert in a way that will make anybody understand the way I feel and think about this place. Why I have a fierce, burning desire the color of entrada sandstone at dusk to be there. Why I feel like I'm home in a state that I've never lived in, surrounded by one of the most inhospitable regions in the United States. How do I tell people why I got a tattoo of a lizard to represent my desert in a way that won't come off as a little psychotic?

It's not just one thing that speaks to me when I'm out there. It's the combination of all of the elements of a desert that astounds me, and keeps me coming back for more like desert sage soaking up moisture after a summer thunderstorm. It's the fiery orange and blindingly white sandstone and the purple shadows at dawn and dusk. It's the sage, the junipers, the cacti and the little hidden wildflowers. It's the ravens and the desert bighorn sheep, the spade foot toads and the coyotes. Not only the physical presences in the desert, but the lack thereof. I've described many times how I prefer solitude to crowds of people; in my desert, I achieve that elusive condition necessary for my sanity. How can I resist the beckon of a place that meets my desires?

I must also confess that I'm drawn to the challenges presented by the desert. Sure, there's the obvious lack of available water, but one can't forget the hiking, mountain biking, jeep trails, scrambling, and rock climbing provided by such an incredible place. If you don't think hiking or scrambling in the desert can be challenging, you obviously haven't read anything I've written before in this blog. There is something about testing your strength and stamina and resources and will power against a completely unforgiving environment. And when you come out on top? Bliss.

The last time I visited my desert, Cat and I were on a week-long hiatus from life. We spent every single day up by dawn (and sometimes long before the first hint of dawn) and returned to the tent well after sunset. We spent all but one evening among the rocks, watching as they flamed brightly, then dimmed into purple silhouettes with the dying day. Twice we hiked to Delicate Arch, on a mission to capture the essence of Arches National Park, along with a hundred other people. Three times we drove to the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park, savoring the long, winding highway up the plateau and across the grassy washes to the very edge of the world, where the earth fell away at our feet and there was nothing to stop us from launching ourselves into the deep shadows left by the retreating light. We arrived too late on two nights, and were there only to watch the sun cast her last sky painting of the day, and observe the canyons falling into silent darkness. The third attempt we arrived early, on the coattails of a booming thunderstorm that left the scent of rain on the air and a rainbow in the sky over the canyons. We set up our cameras, kicked off our shoes, and stretched out, six inches away from one thousand feet of thin air. It was a perfect evening, and I think both of us hoped it would last forever. The sun set slowly, and the mood of the canyons changed constantly. I have a hundred pictures of that moment, and at first glance they all look exactly the same. But then you notice that this canyon here was lit, then it filled with a lavender haze, then finally succumbed to shadows. Then that one over there did the same. And the district across the river, the one we had hiked that very day, looked like flickering candles on a birthday cake, until they were blown out by the setting sun.

Are you beginning to understand the power that my desert holds over me? Every. single. thing. calls to some part of who I am. I love the challenge, I love the adventure, the solitude, the delicate balance of life that water brings, the destructive force that heat can wrought, that water can carve, and the innate peacefulness that I feel when I am there.

The name of my blog is directly related to my desert. The Kokopelli is an ancient southwestern Indian deity, usually depicted as a hunch backed flute player. Kokopelli is a prankster, a healer, a musician, a storyteller and a traveler. Kokopelli is responsible for the changing of winter into spring and for the fertility that accompanies the changing seasons. While in the desert, I bought a little toy raven that now lives on my rear view mirror in my car. Guess what it's name is.

The raven is Kokopelli. The bear is Hallett, named after the mountain I will climb in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO

Now, due to my decision to move even farther away from my heart's home, it is unlikely that I'll get to visit my desert any time this year, but I have every intention of going back as soon as possible in 2016. As in, beginning of January. I don't even care if it's the middle of a high-desert winter. Just means less people, right? Until then, I have photos and memories of my favorite place on the planet, and can look forward to the day that I get to go home.

What I'm listening to: Skytoucher by The Glitch Mob

Scoring that Perfect Picture

Focused. We were on a mission to reach Delicate Arch, Arches National Park's most famous arch, in record time. Cat and I had just arrived in Moab, UT after a 13 hour drive across Nebraska and Colorado, and the first thing we did was enter the park and drive straight to the arch. It was nearly sunset, and we wanted to get to the arch before the sun went down (along with more than one hundred other people). We hadn't even gone to our campsite first, which meant we would be setting up our tent in the dark. Instead, we fought the crowds for a parking place and hightailed it to the trail head, practically running along the crushed sandstone path. We were forced to slow down as we reached the exposed sandstone ramp that makes the three mile round trip trail work for it's classification as "strenuous".

No sun, still stunning!

A quarter-mile of exposed, sloping slickrock sandstone, no shade, no flat area, no stairs, no water. A sign at the beginning of the trail encourages hikers to drink at least a gallon of water a day, and to carry at least a couple of liters if they want to attempt the hike. And that's at the beginning of the trail. Then you wend your way through the dips and crests of the desert, edging along cliffs with nothing to stop you if you fall, following the carins that mark the path to the arch. Assuming you make the ascent, you round a curve of orange sandstone, and then you see it: a free standing arch on the edge of a gigantic bowl, both of which make you instantly feel small and insignificant.

A fraction of the people who come to see Delicate Arch at sunset

Cat and I searched for a place to sit and take pictures of the arch glowing in the sunset among the other sunset enthusiasts willing to make the trek up. We found a spot high on the edge of the bowl, and tried to be out of the way. After setting up our cameras we were disappointed to realize that there was absolutely no way we would be able to get a picture of the arch without some random person standing in the middle of it, having their own picture taken under the dome. Still, we took our pictures and dealt with the crowds, then headed down with the sky still glowing sky blue-pink. Bats flitted overhead, drawn out of their slumbers by the promise of the mosquitoes that made a meal out of us. We left the park, enthusiastic for our week-long stay in the desert.

Not an easy trail, but worth every step

Fast forward to four days after we arrived in Moab, and we were at it again, this time arriving at Delicate Arch with plenty of time to spare, determined to get there ahead of the crowds and maybe, maybe be rewarded with a person-free picture. Also? I wanted a picture of the moon. We hiked more slowly on our second trip up, but still moved faster than most of the people also making their way to the arch. There were far too many human beings on the trail for my taste, but I like solitude and quiet. Especially quiet. That being said, our second attempt was more successful. We arrived early enough to claim a spot closer to the arch, with less people in the way. We both set up our cameras and waited, taking pictures occasionally as we chatted with our neighbors on either side of us. Then it happened: for one second, there was nobody in the arch!

Delicate Arch

I, along with every other person in the vicinity, started clicking away madly, desperate for that elusive shot of the most iconic arch in the park. I was beyond ecstatic; I have been to that arch on four other occasions, but have never been rewarded with that picture.  Cat and I both packed up our cameras, grabbed our bags, then headed down and around the arch while the sun was still in the sky, this time aiming for the bottom of the sandstone bowl at the base of the arch. We had both been eyeing it the first time we were there, and noticed that nobody ever made the journey to the bottom. Figuring we might get a unique perspective on the arch, we climbed down and ambled around the sandy bottom and lower lip of the bowl. We took picture after picture, and discovered that because we were so low, and there was a little bit of a crest toward the top of the bowl, if we positioned ourselves just right we could get a view of the arch that didn't have a person in it, even while people stood under the arch like they usually did. AND the moon was rising right next to the arch, that was glowing a fierce orange in the setting sun. Bonus!

Setting sun, orange arch, rising moon. Perfection.

We took our fill of pictures and views, and when the sun finally bid farewell to the arch we clambered out of the depression to access the trail. On a whim, we climbed on the cliff ledge behind the arch, where most people (especially those afraid of heights) don't go. The sun had set but there was still color in the sky, and with the arch silhouetted against it I couldn't resist but to lay down and take a picture underneath the arch. It's the little things.

"Behind" Delicate Arch

What I'm listening to: Comin' in Hot by Hollywood Undead

2014 New Year's Resolution Wrap-up

Joy! I actually accomplished my New Year's Resolution, decided in the middle of a cold winter when my cabin fever seemed like it would crush me. I set out to explore my state and surrounding country once a month, to drive and drive and drive to my heart's content. Sometimes I went alone, more often I had a companion or two along for the ride. Following is an overview of all of my 16 different road trips over the past year, along with the statistics of my vacations that probably only I find interesting.

A homestead house in Homestead National Monument

January: Homestead National Monument in Beatrice, NE. A couple of friends and I spent hours exploring this little monument tucked in the southeast corner of the state. It was a beautiful January day, warm enough for long sleeves and jeans. We even got to hike a bit in the prairie.

Megan and I getting ready to ski

 February: Two trips this month, the first was skiing at Mount Crescent, IA. Can you believe there is skiing in the Midwest? It's nothing like the slopes of the Rockies, but the Loess Hills along the Missouri River do the best they can! My friend Megan and I spent half the day on the slope, and once we had taken the refresher course on how to ski (and stop) we got on the lift and had a blast! It was a cold and snowy day, and it was perfect.

Marley on the beach at Merritt Reservoir

My second trip in February was a weekend trip to Valentine, NE and Merritt Reservoir. I have always loved Bald Eagles, and in the winter months they congregate around open water so they can continue to eat. The reservoir rarely freezes over entirely, so it's a magnet for eagles. Marley and I got up early in the morning on a Saturday, drove the five hours to the reservoir and were not disappointed! SO MANY EAGLES! We enjoyed ourselves driving around the lake and walking on the frozen beach, then checked into our hotel and took a nap. After we were refreshed we headed to Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge and took a trail along the Niobrara river to Fort Falls, and also enjoyed the entertainment provided by a prairie dog town taunting a badger along a prairie backroad. We also got to see Smith Falls, the highest waterfall in Nebraska. Sunday met us with a Sandhills blizzard, and it was slow going and nerve-racking as we tried to get south of the storm. Once we did, it was clear sailing on the way home.

Overlooking the Missouri River at Ponca State Park

March: Myself and a friend, Torrey, spent a marathon Sunday driving around the northeast Nebraska on a self-guided tour of the historical sites in that part of the the state. We were gone for 15 hours, visited several state parks including Niobrara State Park and Ponca State Park, and many more historical sites and markers. We were treated to several Bald Eagle sightings, and enjoyed a hike along the Niobrara River bluffs. It was a beautiful, clear winter day, and we made the most of it.

Marley sitting pretty at Spring Hollow, Indian Cave State Park

April: First camping trip of the year! Megan and I took Marley with us to Indian Cave State Park, NE. We were some of the few out camping that weekend, mostly because there was a severe storm in the forecast. It held out on us, though, until we finished our hike the next morning. We were lightly rained on the last ten minutes or so, but once we reached my car the sky opened up with a vengeance. Can't tell you how happy we were to have finished our hike just in time! Not so happy about the dozen or so ticks we picked up along the way, but whatever. Worth it.

Marley and Panda playing with a "stick" in a creek at Castlewood State Park

May: Marley and I took our first road trip out of state was to go visit a friend, Cat (and her dog Panda), near St. Louis, MO. Over Memorial Day weekend we hiked in Castlewood State Park, went zip-lining and had a cave tour at Meramec Caverns, visited Cahokia Mounds State Historical Site in Illinois, went to the St. Louis Zoo, and admired a sculpture garden. BUSY weekend! It was fabulous.

Moraine Park in Rocky Mountain National Park

June: My solo trip to Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. I've written about one of the hikes I did in a previous post, but I have a couple of more stories to tell still! It was a four day weekend accomplished at my own pace, with plenty of time to think, get to know myself and my comfort levels, and do whatever I damn well pleased without consulting anybody else. Note to self: I should do something like that more often.

July: Could have been a major disappointment, but luckily I try to look on the bright side of things and make the best out of any situation. After a white water rafting trip had to be cancelled due to my health, I was instead able to go with my boyfriend, Jared, while he went home over that weekend, and I was introduced to his parents. It was a fun weekend, filled with getting to know each other and plenty of picking on Jared. Adventure, indeed!

I also made another trip to see Cat, and we were supposed to go skydiving, but had to cancel due to severe weather. I for one do not want to jump out of a plane and be struck by lightning! Instead we went shopping, watched movies, and also went back to Castlewood State Park. It was a short and sweet weekend, even if it wasn't what I went for. (I was bad, I didn't take ANY pictures of my travels in July-I just didn't have it in me).

The view from Pike's Peak

August: This trip was kind of just thrown together and done on a whim. I ran away with Torrey to Pike's Peak, CO! Her dad ran the marathon up and down Pike's Peak, and Torrey and I went along to cheer him on. It was just for a weekend, but we managed to get in some sight-seeing, shopping, checked out the Peak, Garden of the Gods, and also went to Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument. Got in a couple of easy hikes and plenty of driving through the mountains! Next time I go back I am so doing the Manitou Incline. Think wooden stairs, straight up the side of a mountain, 2000 feet of elevation gain in less than a mile. Count me in.

Grand View Point, Canyonlands National Park

September: My longest and one of my top trips of the year, Cat and I spent a week hiking roughly 60 miles in the deserts and canyon country around Moab, UT. It was wonderful, it was magical, it was both strenuous and relaxing, it was amazing, and I'm already thinking about when and how I can go back. The red rocks of the desert capture my heart in a way that no where else has ever been able to do, except maybe the snow-capped peaks of the Rockies. I have many stories about my vacation there, some of which I have already written posts about here, here, here, and here. Trust me, there are plenty more to come.

Marley and Callie on the trail at Ponca State Park

My second trip of the month was a day trip to Ponca State Park, NE. I took Marley and Jared's dog, Callie, with me to go hiking in the wooded bluffs along the Missouri River. It was a short trip, but it was good for both the dogs and myself! I was missing the desert, and needed to get outside again. Mission accomplished.

Nothing like those Sandhills skies

October: Two trips this month as well. My daddy and I took a weekend to visit the Sandhills in north central Nebraska on a quest to photograph the state historical markers along the way. We made it as far north as Valentine, got a motel room, then were up at dawn to continue our quest. We got something like 56 or so markers, plus plenty of sightseeing. The Sandhills are always fun to drive through, and the prairies and open blue skies make one think of pioneer days, and of the ranching that is the current lifeblood of the area. Dad and I visited Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge and we retraced my steps in February. I'm glad we finally had some father-daughter time. We've never taken a trip together like that, and I'm thankful to my daddy for instilling the love of travel, adventure, exploration and driving into me.

That's right. That's me! And the parachute is pink, even!

My second trip of October I've already written about in my first post: Skydiving!! Once again I visited Cat, and we made the trip to Paxton, IL to test our luck and jump out of a plane. It was an incredible experience, and I seriously want to become a licensed jumper. There is nothing in the world like the feeling of being in free fall.

Callie snuggled in my mummy sleeping bag. Why? Because she fit. Kinda.

November: Last camping trip of the year, and it was kind of a disaster. My sister, Alisha, and I took Marley and Callie to Indian Cave State Park. We had the whole campground to ourselves, we got in late, and from the get-go I made so many mistakes it was like I had never camped before. I always go through my travel list before any trip, yet I neglected to do so on this final camping expedition. As a result, we forgot stupid things that shouldn't have been an issue. I also *accidentally* ran over my sister's air mattress.. I still owe her a new one. Ahhh.. good memories. We checked out the park's namesake, but left fairly early once we decided we had already pushed the limits of our luck. We visited some family in the area, and headed home less than 24 hours after we set out.

BIG kitty at the tiger refuge!

December: My last trip of the year was also one of my favorites. I went to visit Jared in Tyler, TX, where he moved to in November for a job working with big cats. I had a three day weekend, so Marley and I loaded up and headed south to where it was warm, humid, and actually awesome. I have a bit of a prejudice against Texas, but pushed it aside and enjoyed my stay. I got a tour of Jared's work, and we also visited the Tyler zoo. Callie and Marley were so happy to see each other! It was also fantastic to see Jared after a month apart. I can't wait to visit again, especially now that it is 30 degrees and threatening snow as I type this.

Snow in June at Rocky Mountain National Park. For reference, I'm 5'5".

Now, my New Year's Resolution by the numbers:

13,241 miles driving my car, with a couple of thousand more miles in someone else's car. So, somewhere around 15,000 miles spent in a car just on my road trips.

Roughly 35 days spent traveling. I kept better records in the last half of the year, but I don't know my exact timing because I didn't keep perfect track for the first few months. But I can safely say I spent over one total month traveling throughout the year.

I had 10 companions with me on my trips, and they either actually rode in the car with me, or I was going to visit them. Also, 5 furry companions!

I hiked around 105 miles. I wish this number was multiplied by about 5, but sometimes life just doesn't let you do what you want. 

I spent 12 nights in a tent, and 16 nights in either a hotel or someone's home. Shout out to everybody who let me stay with them, and also to the people who let me borrow their tent when mine just wouldn't cut it. 

I visited 9 states, 6 national parks/monuments, and countless state parks. The parks system is one of the best programs out there, conserving irreplaceable natural beauty, historically important sites, and preserving our past culture for our future ones. Anybody who says otherwise must live under a rock. 

And finally, I spent well over $3000 on my trips. Again, I didn't keep perfect records at the beginning, but I can safely say I spent a minimum of $3000. Probably closer to $4000. Worth. Every. Single. Penny.

Touching stingrays at the St. Louis Zoo

I would like to point out here that I am not privileged or special. The only trip my parents paid for was the one I took with Daddy, and that was because he wouldn't let me pay. I work a full time job with forty hours of paid vacation and forty hours of sick leave. I work a part time job that takes up one or two Sundays a month. I pick up pet/house-sitting jobs whenever possible. I work my ass off to be able to afford my travels. I have had a shitty year in terms of loss, having lost both my great grandmother AND my last remaining grandparent in general, an amazing woman I am lucky enough to call Grandma. I have been diagnosed with a major illness that is likely to be with me for the rest of my life, autoimmune hepatitis, which gives me fevers, fatigue that makes me want to sleep endlessly, and attacks my joints to the point where I have trouble getting up off of the floor and has turned my grip to shit. On bad days I'm lucky if I can move my wrists, and when this first started I could hardly walk. This illness is the reason I didn't hike nearly as much as I wanted to this year, and also why I had to cancel my white water rafting trip-I probably would have fallen out of the boat and drowned because I  wouldn't have been able to hold on. I have pushed my limits, probably more than I should have, but I pushed anyway and found that I surpassed even my own expectations. But I knew when to stop, when I couldn't possibly do any more or else risk serious injury.

Sunset is the best time to visit Delicate Arch in Arches National Park.

I don't write this asking for pity. I'm actually saying there are no excuses when it comes to doing what you want to do. Traveling has become my passion, and I made it a priority. If one thing wouldn't work, I found something that would. I intentionally scheduled trips around weekends and holidays, knowing it would give me extra days without having to take off of work. I made every single hour of paid vacation count, even though I lost all of my sick leave and a few hours of vacation to my illness when I was out of work for a week due to doctor's orders. That was in July. I still had half a year of traveling to go! If you want to travel, you'll make the time. I made it work even with so many factors against me. I am already planning another couple of trips for 2015, and I can't wait to be on the road again.

What I'm listening to: Drive It Like You Stole It by The Glitch Mob