Thursday, June 29, 2017
A Snapshot and The Scoop: Squirrels at Zion
I know, I know, more squirrels. I can't help myself! You all are well aware of how much I love these fat little bushy-tailed rodents, and Zion Canyon was full of them! I was in squirrel heaven! I'm not someone who would try to touch or feed the wild squirrels, I know better, but I sure as hell enjoyed them from afar. This little lady was busy pulling wildflower stems down to reach the deliciously sweet flower right along the side of the trail and I took advantage of her being so close to snap more pictures of her than I'd like to admit. Her and the other squirrels all along the canyon bottom took almost no heed of my sister, myself, or the rest of the crowd as we watched their scurrying antics. I'm sure my sister got annoyed at me for spending so much time looking at a rodent rather than at the soaring red cliffs or the bright blue river, but I didn't care (and still don't). I love squirrels!!
Leave me a comment below and tell me about an animal that grabs your attention no matter where you are. Any fellow squirrel lovers out there?
Sunday, June 25, 2017
Angel's Landing: The Scariest Hike
Careful. It wasn't the first or last time on this adventure that we were up before the sun. My sister and I had arrived at Zion National Park the day before after an all night drive across three states, and were up way too early, trying to beat the heat and the crowds. We planned to hike Angel's Landing, one of the most popular hikes in the park, but knew we needed to get a head start before most other people crawled out of their sleeping bags if we were going to enjoy the hike. When our alarm went off at 5am we scrambled out of the tent, tore down camp, and packed up. We drove a short distance to the park's shuttle lot and caught the 6am shuttle with the other motivated hikers, all of whom were also going to the Landing.
Angel's Landing is a doozy of a trail; it is well known for it's jaw-dropping views of Zion Canyon, but you have to put in the work to get there. The trail is rated as strenuous, and is not recommended for anyone not in the peak of health. Also, you know, anyone with a fear of heights. The trail begins deceivingly easy with a flat dirt path leading you along the Virgin River, climbing slightly but nothing that would cause you to become short of breath. Then you hit the first switchbacks. You slowly crawl your way up a cliff, still facing the main canyon and the river, and watch the canyon bottom drop away from you. If you take your time these switchbacks aren't too bad, but they're only a taste of what comes later. Also, you see the cliff in the center of the picture above? The top of that is Angel's Landing. How in the hell do you get up there??
The views along the trail up canyon walls are incredible. We arrived a little too late to watch the sunrise from the Landing, but we got to watch the canyon wake up around and below us which was just as amazing. We also beat the heat, with the vast majority of our hike, except at the very top, completely shaded. We climbed up the switchbacks and finally came around the last one that dove back into the cliffs, spitting us out into narrow shaded canyon full of the promise of water. It was cool and green and smelled like growing things and wet earth, and I didn't want to leave. There were places we could climb on the slickrock walls, exploring little arches and gullies leading away from the main canyon. We were on a mission, though, and passed through the relatively flat canyon quickly.
And then we came to Walter's Wiggle: 21 steep, short, evenly spaced switchbacks straight up a cliff, but we hadn't even reached the Landing yet. I had seriously hyped myself up for the Wiggle, hearing from my sister (who has done it before) and reading other people's experiences online about how difficult the trail up is. In reality, the Wiggle didn't give me much trouble, though I admit I stopped to take pictures so often that I had plenty of opportunities to catch my breath. The top of the Wiggle drops you near the start of Angel's Landing, where you get a true idea of the challenges ahead. If the trail up to Angel's Landing had been strenuous it was nothing compared to what I was looking at now.
We were staring at the razor edge rim of a thin fin that climbed up so far that it was almost impossible to see the top. Chains were bolted to poles and the rusty red slickrock to assist you on your way up (and down) and to help mark the "trail." The official trail to Angel's Landing ends at the first chain section, with a warning sign cautioning against continuing if you have any medical problems or acrophobia. My sister and I paused here, catching our breath and (at least I was) gathering my courage. Then we grabbed ahold of the first of countless chains and began our trek up. I thought the first chains were bad enough with loose and slippery slickrock below my feet and a slide into nothing not far below. I was incredibly wrong.
Thousand foot drop offs awaited us on either side as we climbed higher, white knuckles popping out as I gripped the slick iron chain with both hands. Many times I relied on my upper body strength to pull myself up a particularly vertical set of chains, trying to set my feet in a way that they wouldn't slip out from under me on the slickrock. More than once we discovered that the chain had some give as we put all of our weight on it, only to have the cold iron swing out unexpectedly and send us wobbling off balance, hearts racing. The worst was when someone else passed us going up or down, with their counterweight on the chain and suddenly letting go, or moving so erratically that we would just stop dead, waiting for the chain to stop swinging and for us to get our balance back. The avenue of travel up the fin was so narrow along the chains that you had to crawl over people in order to get around them; a step to the side would be a step into thin air. Angel's Landing is by far the most thrilling hike I've ever trekked, though I'm not sure I'll do it again in a hurry. I was more fearful for my life than at any other time on my adventures; the risk of falling was way too real.
I can't speak for my sister, but I was concentrating so hard on not dying that I was shocked when we arrived at the top of Angel's Landing. A wide, flat expanse of rock spilled out beneath our feet, perfect for snacking and pictures with plenty of places to sit and enjoy the incredible views all around us. A lot of people were already there, but not near the amount that would be up later in the day. Lisha and I had done good by starting as early as we had. I can't tell you how long we were up there, eating, taking pictures, and trying to psych ourselves up for the return journey; all I knew is that I really, really, didn't want to have to hike back down.
I thought up was bad. Down was worse. While travelling up you're at least looking above you, centering your weight underneath your feet as you lean into the cliff, able to grab a rock or wrap your arms around the chain to help yourself climb the rocks. Heading down, however, you had to look at where you'd fall if you misstepped, or slipped and let go of the chain. You're fighting to steady yourself against gravity, while gravity is trying its hardest to bring you back down to the hard and rocky earth. Your feet seem to find the worst places to land and you're trying to not think about what would happen if the rocks beneath them suddenly gave way. There were several times where I was on my hands and knees, searching for a bit of stability by keeping my center of gravity as low as possible. If there hadn't been so many people around by that time I probably would have sat on my butt and scooted down the fin. We eventually made it down, slowly but surely, always moving and never looking over the edge that was right next to our shoes. We paused at the top of Walter's Wiggle long enough to look back at the ant line of people beginning their own trek up Angel's Landing, grateful we had finished it when we did. We turned our backs on the scariest hike I've ever done, and made our way back to river level with ease.
What I'm listening to: Allegretto by Bond
Thursday, June 22, 2017
A Snapshot and The Scoop: Riverside Walk
Once again I found myself walking among the trees and hanging gardens along the noisy river at the bottom of towering red sandstone cliffs stained black with desert varnish. I was back at Zion National Park in southwestern Utah, and the path along the river, the beginning of the river walk into The Narrows, is always a must. It is a paved trail, easily accessible to anybody, and is therefore very popular, but well worth the crowds. Trees line the bottom of the canyon where the river doesn't run while mule deer and rock squirrels make a living between the river and the cliffs. Zion Canyon narrows the farther upstream you go, and the red cliffs seem to loom above you. Dirt trails crisscross themselves along the banks of the river where it swings against one wall or the other, and it is here that mule deer and humans coexist. Going to Zion someday? Make this path a priority.
Leave me a comment below and tell me if you've ever been here. Do you want to go?
Sunday, June 18, 2017
The Return to Hidden Canyon
Fulfilled. Guys, I finally finished this hike! If you remember, I visited Zion National Park in January 2016 and tried to hike to Hidden Canyon (read about it here) but was forced to abandon my hike due to a minor problem with ice covering the trail that runs along an exposed cliff edge. Basically I didn't feel like dying, so I turned around. I had promised to make the Hidden Canyon hike the first thing I did when I returned to the park, and this May I had the chance to finish the hike when my sister and I took a week-long trip to the desert, and I jumped at it. I had to redeem myself! The hike to Hidden Canyon this time around started off just like I remembered it, with switchbacks up a slickrock wall leading to the first area where a chain is bolted to the side of the cliff for you to hold as you scoot around a bend in the canyon. I had done this part last time, and all but glided along the chain and on to the set of stairs that led to the second set of chains, where I had admitted defeat last time and turned back.
The second set of chains included a narrow path and a larger drop than the first set, and it was this that had persuaded me to not risk my life in the quest to fulfill a hike the first time around. Grabbing that chain and finding out what was around the next bend in the trail was high on my list of things to do, and it was all new territory for me after I left the relative safety of the stairs behind me. I had no idea that there was yet another chain area after the second set, but as neither my sister nor I have a particular fear of heights the third chain set was really no big deal, especially during summer time, especially with no ice, even though the drop below our feet was the biggest yet.
The third set of chains take you right to the mouth of Hidden Canyon, which is a small side canyon set within the larger Zion Canyon in the national park. Zion is well known for its almost magical expanse of greenery, seep springs, and hanging gardens right in the middle of one of the most inhospitable deserts in the country, and Hidden Canyon is an excellent example of these oasises. My sister and I were eager to explore the cool green canyon full of hanging ferns and shade that is so rare to find in southern Utah. To learn more about the hanging gardens see my post about them, but basically rainwater and snowmelt soak in to the porous sandstone on top of the canyon and eventually drip out of the walls down in the bottom portions of the canyon. These seep springs are sometimes much more than a few drips (see Weeping Rock here and here) but any water at all can serve plantlife and the walls of Hidden Canyon are covered in mosses and ferns.
Hidden Canyon is also a rather narrow canyon, not exactly a slot canyon that requires you to suck in your gut to pass through, but it has a few places that make you scramble a little bit to get through. The high walls so close together cast the canyon in shade for the majority of the day, except at high noon, and thus protect plantlife from the scorching desert sun. Shade plus water allow plants bigger than ferns and moss to grow, including trees, shrubs, and grasses, and we climbed over and under more trees than I had expected upon entering the canyon.
Eventually we reached the official end of the canyon, a small free-standing arch of dark grey sandstone and a sign stating it was the end of the "trail." Of course, there was nothing really stopping us from going farther except time, and I'm making a note here to go back some day and keep exploring the canyon farther. I'm sure someone has, though I don't know whether it just keeps carving back until it gets so shallow that you come out on top of Zion, or if it ends as a box canyon with an impassable dryfall blocking the way up. Someday I'll know, but this trip was not the time to find out. After the arch we turned back and made our way down canyon, taking our time and staring up at the walls covered in greenery above us. We eventually came to the mouth of the canyon and headed back, taking the chains as more of a convenience than a necessity. Visiting in winter was fun and all, but I prefer the ice-free version of this hike; less of a risk of falling.
What I'm listening to: Navigating Home by Mark Mancina
Thursday, June 15, 2017
A Snapshot and The Scoop: Hanging Gardens
There is just something about plants growing out of a vertical wall that fascinates people, myself included. These gravity-defying plants pepper the thousand foot walls of Zion Canyon at Zion National Park, latching on to any crack or ledge they can dig their roots in to, catching the rare rain water and seep springs flowing out of the sandstone in order to survive. Visit the canyon during the right time of year and the walls pop with the yellows, reds, and purples of wildflowers such as columbine and indian paintbrush. The colony of yellow columbines pictured above found themselves a somewhat sheltered depression in the canyon wall and quickly took root, creating a piller of green and yellow thirty feet high. If you've never experienced the hanging gardens within Zion Canyon I highly recommend doing so!
Leave me a comment below and tell me if you've ever seen hanging gardens, at Zion or elsewhere.
Sunday, June 11, 2017
The Fourth Annual Father-Daughters Adventure (Plus Jared and Mom!)
Reveling. You guys, I've been horrible about writing lately as I'm sure you've noticed. It's not for lack of travelling either, as you'll see, but more on my part. Life has been crazy busy and I just haven't forced myself to sit down long enough to get a story or two typed out on the keyboard. I hope to change that, because I just got back from an epic adventure in the deserts of the Southwestern U.S. and can't wait to share it all with you! Before that, though, I want to tell you about the fourth annual Father-Daughters trip we took at the beginning of May.
I say Father-Daughters, but the annual trip is evolving into more of a whole family vacation because last year Jared went with us, and this year both Jared and my mom went! The only person we were missing was my brother, and I'm sure he'll come along next year. You can probably already tell from the pictures, but we went back to the San Antonio Riverwalk this year! The Riverwalk has always been a favorite destination for my parents, and when I was old enough to enjoy the bars crowded along the narrow sidewalks I came to enjoy it as well. It is likely that we'll continue to return in future years, because who doesn't like drinking and eating all day?
My parents and sister flew in to San Antonio on a Thursday morning and Jared and I joined them after work that same evening. It's about a five hour drive for us, and though Jared would disagree with me, it isn't too bad. We hit the Riverwalk mid-morning on Friday, taking our time strolling along the river as the shops and restaurants opened around us. We sat down at the first of several places for the day and were soon enjoying cold drinks and appetizers. Everywhere we went the usual flocks of ducks and sparrows, cowbirds and grackles, crowded the sidewalk alongside the people. Jared entertained us by trying to lure ducks close enough to catch, but he was never successful, thankfully.
We started mid-morning both days, ate and drank for a bit, then headed back to the hotel for a nap before getting up and going out for the evening. We also had to make a stop at The Alamo, mostly because we walked right past it on our way from the hotel to the river and back. Guys, they do a real good job of making it pop at night. It's just beautiful. We got in a little shopping and tried a really awesome martini bar where the drinks were gorgeously crafted and dangerously yummy, ate all manner of different foods, and enjoyed people watching from the comfort of the patios we sat on. It was a wonderful little getaway, and I'm already looking forward to next year's trip!
What I'm listening to: The Shadow of the Past by Howard Shore
Thursday, June 8, 2017
A Snapshot and The Scoop: Cooling Off at Weeping Rock
I've written about Weeping Rock before (here) but at that time the rocks were slicked with ice cascading down onto the path below, forming intricate icicles that necessitated the closure of the trail for fear of sharp falling objects. This time, however, the warm May sun allowed the water to flow and drip freely, showcasing the rock's namesake. Standing under the shady alcove is an excellent way to cool down on a hot summer's day, and the trail is popular for that reason alone, nevermind the spectacle of water dripping from solid rock and the acccompanying hanging gardens that grace the wall.
Leave me a comment below and tell me if you've ever been to Zion National Park and seen this rock!
Saturday, June 3, 2017
National Trails Day
Happy National Trails Day! Throughout the years I've been travelling I've been on countless hiking trails, from short little spurs to fourty plus mile treks, and everything in between. If you've been with me since the beginning I'm sure you've noticed my evolution from short day trips to multi-day backpacking, as well as the knowledge and experience that comes with it. Hiking has let me find myself, escape from work and responsibilities, and has become who I am. Hi, I'm Natasha, I hike a lot and love animals. Being on a trail has given me confidence in my own abilities, a hobby worth bragging about, and a passion I love to share.
I have no intention to quit hiking, and actually want to plan a short thru-hike in the upcoming years. I'll hike as much as I can as far as I can, and would love to take anybody who wants to tag along! In celebration of National Trails Day I've compiled a list of my favorite trails to date, complete with a picture and short description, plus my personal favorite part of the trail. Read on below!
Chesler Park/The Joints, Needles District, Canyonlands National Park, UT
This trail will forever be on the list of favorites, and for very good reason. Where else do you get to walk through a grass and wildflower filled bowl surrounded by hundreds of spires striped with red and white rock, then descend into narrow cracks in the earth that you can explore to your heart's content? Backpacking Chesler Park is a life goal of mine, and it's just a matter of time before I can't resist going back and doing it. Plus, you know, The Joints are neat too!
The Dune Field, Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, CO
A giant sandbox surrounded by 14,000 ft mountains? Yes, please! Sprinkle in wild sunflowers during the right time of year, and make sure you catch a sunset and a sunrise among the dunes, and you're in for a magical time. There are no established trails in the dune (the shifting sand would bury markers in no time) so making sure you know your directions and landmarks outside of the dune field is a must.
Andrew's Tarn and Glacier, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
The first time hiking to a glacier and it's tarn is always sure to make an impression, and Andrew's Glacier in Rocky Mountain certainly did. It wasn't just the glacier that made the whole long day hike worth it; we passed pristine alpine lakes like The Loch (above) along the way. A hike just to this lake alone would be worth it!
Mount Le Conte via Rainbow Falls Trail, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN
Hiking alone deep in bear country with a storm rolling in? Yeah, it might not have been the smartest move on my part but the hike itself was well worth the worry. I've never hiked in a place so green, and pictures don't do it justice. Can I go back now?
Hidden Canyon, Zion National Park, UT
I finally finished this short hike in Zion, and it was so worth the 18 month wait. Not for those with a fear of heights or tight places, the trail to the mouth of Hidden Canyon is sprinkled with exposed sections along the shelf of a cliff, with nothing but a chain bolted to the rock for you to hold on to. A set of stairs and many switchback make it moderately strenuous, but for those with plenty of water and a good pair of legs your reward is Hidden Canyon with it's fern-covered walls and cool shady grottos.
Angel's Landing, Zion National Park, UT
This is by far the scariest hike I've ever accomplished, and though I'm not sure I would do it again I am beyond proud of myself that I finished it. Now, I don't have a fear of heights at all, but I have a slight problem using a chain to pull myself up and down a very narrow fin of rock with thousand foot drop offs on both sides of my feet, especially a chain that swings out unexpectedly if someone else grabs it or lets it go. The view from the top though? Incredible.
Tonto Trail, Grand Canyon National Park, AZ
Another recent accomplishment, the Tonto Trail is one of a small handful of trails that run the length of Grand Canyon National Park, inside the canyon. My sister and I spent four days hiking the canyon, with all three of our campsites on this trail. More on that adventure will come later, but all I'll say right now is I want to go back. I miss the trail, the simplicity of walking, no phones, no communication outside of ourselves and a couple of other hikers, and the quiet. The walking wasn't easy by any means, but I already miss it and I've only been back for a couple of weeks.
National Trails Day is also a day for hikers to give back to the trails we love so much, and thank the people who make trails possible. I encourage every one of you who's ever enjoyed a trail to do something to benefit and give back. You can volunteer for trail maintenance, pick up garbage along your favorite trail, donate to a nonprofit that advocates for trails, or countless other options to help keep trails accessible to everyone. If nothing else, get outside and hit a trail! I'll see ya out there.
What I'm listening to: At Wit's End by Hans Zimmer